Topic: The Comprehensive Vehicle Deficiency Thread

[Great_Big_Abyss]

New idea for a thread, inspired mostly by the FGC threads, lol.

State the year, make/model, and mileage of your vehicle.  THEN, state anything that has been or is currently wrong with it.  And I don't mean scratches and dents, but rather mechanical or build quality items.  You know, bad starter, trim pieces falling off, etc.

I'll start:

2011 Nissan Altima. 85000 kms.  The rear window switches on the driver panel won't roll up the windows.  They work for down, and the individual door switches work fine for up, just not the driver panel switches.  I may look for a replacement panel at a junkyard this coming summer.

There is a slow leak in one of the All Season Tires.  Cooper CS5 Grand Touring.  The tires were new in July of 2014, but one of them acquired a slow puncture this past summer.  I got it plugged, and it was fine, but a few months ago started leaking slowly again.  I have to add air every two weeks or so.  Not sure if it's a new leak, or if it's the repair that is leaking.  It probably isn't the tires' fault, but it's turned me off Coopers, and I'll be replacing them with something different when the time comes.

[rrocket]

The shift linkage in the 1998 Forester is shot.  It's a huge PITA to replace.  You have to access from underneath.  Use a 14+" long punch and push out what will be a rusted pin in the assembly.  Only then can you begin to replace it.

This is exactly how sloppy my shifting is.  Even when it gear, it slops around like a car in neutral.  Yes..that much slop!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRfkC3ggCok

[sszoomzoom]

2014 Mazda 3 Sport 82000 km.
Driver power door actuator has been replaced under warranty 3 times. This fall it started again with the squeak again and the dealership charged me 44 bucks to lubricate the parts, next morning the noise was there and I was pissed. I phoned the service manager and he apologized for the charge (he refunded me the money and could not believe his guys charged me for a door lube job) and emailed to Mazda Canada. Apparently this is a well know issue on Mazda 3's and CX 5's, even the brand new 3 they offered me to drive while they diagnosed my car was making the noise while locking and unlocking the driver door. Mazda Canada recommended the dealership to take the actuator apart and lube it. Hope this time will work. The service department has been amazing and the manager is a very nice guy. The other problem was the AC clutch that was replaced under warranty last summer. I love my car.

[revalations]

2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 130,xxx km

- Drivers door handle broken. Can't open door from the inside.
- Drivers seatbelt buckle (female end) takes lots of fiddling around to get it to buckle.
- Tow/haul button only works 50% of the time
 

[Ex-airbalancer]

2011 Chevy Silverado LTZ 1500 110,000 km nothing
2010 Toyota Prius , 146,000 , rear brakes replaced in June
2000 BMW 323 CIC , 140,000  it a FGC , there not that much room here 

[Blueprint]

2011 Nissan Altima. 85000 kms.  The rear window switches on the driver panel won't roll up the windows.  They work for down, and the individual door switches work fine for up, just not the driver panel switches.  I may look for a replacement panel at a junkyard this coming summer.

Just wondering: have you replaced the battery? If so, the auto-up windows, if equipped with them, need a reset - procedure is in the manual. Sounds like they really don't work, but thought I'd suggest that, just in case.

[Firm]

I thought we had a similar thread awhile back? But here goes anyway (I am only doing the ones I've driven in the last year, lol)

1996 Firebird (130,000kms):
-Dash pad recently cracked right down the center. NOS units online are pricey ($300 USD + shipping), but I think I've located a good one at a yard in Windsor, will pickup in January when I go to Detroit.
-Keyless entry module stopped working about 10 years ago, never bothered to replace it.

1985 Trans Am (135,000kms):
-Needs tires...both winter and summer tires are 15 years old and on or near the wear bars. Plan is to buy a good set of summer in the Spring and hopefully by next winter I'll have a more appropriate winter car so I won't need new winters.
-One bulb in the speedometer is burnt out and needs to be replaced

2000 Sonoma (230,000kms):
-A/C has a slow leak that I cannot track down, I just top it up every spring.
-Could use a new carrier bearing as the rubber on this one looks like it's starting to deteriorate.

2001 SLK320 (140,000kms)
-Nothing 

1977 MGB (40,000mi)
-Nothing 

[Great_Big_Abyss]

2011 Nissan Altima. 85000 kms.  The rear window switches on the driver panel won't roll up the windows.  They work for down, and the individual door switches work fine for up, just not the driver panel switches.  I may look for a replacement panel at a junkyard this coming summer.

Just wondering: have you replaced the battery? If so, the auto-up windows, if equipped with them, need a reset - procedure is in the manual. Sounds like they really don't work, but thought I'd suggest that, just in case.

Thanks for the tip.  I have NOT replaced the battery, although it did die once when I left an interior light on.  But I don't think that was the problem.  Besides, the rear windows aren't auto-up windows, only the front windows.  I already tried the reset on them when they failed anyway.

[tenpenny]

2011 Explorer 110,000 km
1 seized caliper
1 bad wheel bearing
1 AC compressor

still, far ahead of a FGC.

[Sir Osis of Liver]

Fuel leak from loose fitting on fuel rail. Fixed.

That's it so far, but I only have 1900kms on it.

[johngenx]

2009 Corolla - 160K - nothing.
2004 Highlander - 260K - nothing.

2001 Forester 400K
 - Driver's side head gasket weeping oil externally - has been this way for a while, no changes.
 - Exhaust leak I still haven't repaired
 - weatherstripping for all four doors is coming off - don't want to spend all that dough, so gluing it back onto the doors
 - AC seems weak, pressure test to spec - not sure if it was always this way and just feels weak compared to the excellent systems in the Corolla and Highlander
 - hatch latch failed but I was able to take it apart and repair it - still have the interior panels out, they need to be reinstalled
 - front seat belt retractors starting to fail, so seatbelts flop around when not buckled
 - clock on overhead console hasn't worked in forever
 - illumination on stereo not working

1994 Miata 137K
 - Very slight weep from rear main seal - will replace only if it fails or when the clutch needs replacing
 - brakes will need replacing in the spring

[Gurgie]

2014 Jeep Wrangler - 25,500kms
~9000kms - oil pump and oil coolant lines (warranty)
~10,000kms - new HVAC control unit and new stereo head unit (warranty)

1996 Porsche 944 Turbo - owned since August 1, 2014 - 124,000 MILES
- new front and rear shocks (old ones were tired)
- new clutch slave & master cylinder
- new fuel pressure regulator
Work planned on it for next spring/ summer
- has a few oil leaks that I need to take care of
- need to change the washer fluid reservoir as it's leaking
- change out all the vacuum lines
- change out tranny fluid
- flush out coolant
- flush out brake fluid
- some performance mods maybe 

[pi314]

I'll pull a NoTo and talk about all my family's cars 
2008 Rondo
113 000 km
CD player failure (warranty)
Suspension parts ( may be my dad's fault hauling rocks)

2011 Corolla
90 000 km or so
Gearbox is squeaky

2009 Odyssey Touring
100 000km or so - bought with 88 000
AC Relay this year - may have been caused by collision in Jan

2013 Ford Focus
30 000 km ish
Nothing. Sync sometimes acts up though

[PJungnitsch]

2004 Pontiac Vibe (210,000 km)
Check engine light comes on, code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold).  Probably should change plugs, then the rear O2 sensor if that does not fix it.
First time I've worked on the car in ages.

2002 Honda CRV (250,000 km)
Nothing

[Arthur Dent]

2012 Mazda 2 (61k kms)
   cracked windshield

2012 Ford F150 (67k kms)
   cracked windshield

1950-ish Austin A40 (no odometer so who knows)
   rusty,
   engine seized
   no brake fluild
   cracked windshield
   mostly disassembled ...
   oh and I cut it in half

1988 Chevrolet S10 (can't remember)
   Gearbox out for repair (done) but not put back in.
   Dead battery
   Oddly enough no cracked windshield!

[johngenx]

1950-ish Austin A40 (no odometer so who knows)
   rusty,
   engine seized
   no brake fluild
   cracked windshield
   mostly disassembled ...
   oh and I cut it in half

 

[ktm525]

300 KTM EX/C (Countless hours of abuse) : Replaced front and rear worn tires with a studded set. Weather has been mild so there may be a few riding opportunities but the 300 doesn't have heated grips. It needs a top end (piston and rings) in the next few hours.

2011 Ridgeline: (65 000km) Nothing except I have an annoying rattle (tick?) deep in the dash. I fear the windshield or dent less repair guys dropped something. I have been poking around but cannot find the source yet. I have picked up a really cool fiber optic inspection camera from CT to play with though.

2010 Land Rover LR4: (125 000 km) Dare I say nothing? Replaced the front discs and rotors not long ago and everything seems good. Oh I replaced the licence plate lights with some LEDS because one of the old ones was burnt.

[Cord]

2003 Focus ZX5 (60,000 km)

Ignition switch - warranty
Coil springs - warranty
One turn signal bulb.

[tooscoops]

i like dents... heh... none of mine are in two pieces... won't comment on the odd ones.

2008 patriot - been solid, but poor materials on the interior. don't like the cvt thrash
-80km tires
-102kms brakes, control arm
-120km other arm and cvt service

2015 wrangler - the usual negatives that you expect
-windshield was installed wrong, gap in the silicone for huge wind leak.
-hasn't been fixed, but shift detent... still tries to pop out of 4th on me.

[Noto]

2009 Corolla - 160K - nothing.

Lies.  I know you've had some sh!t go wrong.

I'll pull a NoTo and talk about all my family's cars 

Happy to continue my reputation...

2010 Corolla - 82,000km
1) Radio screen intermittently died.  It stopped doing that a while ago and seems to be aiight.
2) CEL as per my FJC thread (vacuum switcher valve stuck open).  Oxygen sensor was replaced at this time, too, but that didn't fix the issue (all done under ECP)
3) Front seat squeaks a bit near the seatbelt buckle (there's a TSB out in the US for it, but not in Canada)
4) Brake pads have been replaced in the front, and the rears shoes are at 4mm.
5) OEM tires are down to 4/32" and will be replaced in the spring (we have dedicated winters that are at 9/32")
6) B-pillar (driver's side) rattle in the seatbelt assembly
7) Trunk latch failed to open from inside lever (fixed under warranty)
8.) Paint feather on trunklid (repainted under warranty)
9) Failed to start once (finally started after 4 attempts), but never again...

Overall, my dad remains really happy with the purchase

2006 RX400h - 91,000mi
1) Driver's side mirror motor (1 of 2 - vertical) no longer works.
2) All 4 rotors replaced this year because they were rusted from non-use.  In fact, we still have 8mm of material left (second set of brake pads ever :|)

2011 Forester - 59,000km
1) Rear left tail light had condensation and was replaced (under original warranty)
2) Front rotors were fried because of lies from Willowdale Subaru (I asked them to replace the brake pads.  I paid for 4 brake pads.  They didn't replace the front pads.  Lady No-san drove the Forester for a year in Ithaca without front brakes).

2004 Pontiac Vibe (210,000 km)
Check engine light comes on, code P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold).  Probably should change plugs, then the rear O2 sensor if that does not fix it.

We had this with the Corolla (see my FJC thread)

It was a vacuum switcher valve stuck open.  Easy and cheap fix - look at it before the O₂ sensor(s).