Topic: Little things that make you happy

[ArticSteve]

Ok well you guys convinced me to at least look into it, but I’m still skeptical for my case use. I look at my 335, daily driven for the past 9 years (holy crap 9 years already) and no issues with rust other than some underbody surface rust. I don’t know.

I’ll ask the tight a$$ed Porsche community to see what they do for their winter driven sports cars.

You are looking at the wrong parts of the vehicle.  It's all the fasteners, fuel line connections, brake lines, top of the gas tank.  Wire connectors.  Power window regulators.  The parts are endless.

KROWN ONLY  Stop in and buy a bottle.  Two versions, but I always forget which is which.  T-40 I think.  Spray it on your garage door rollers and hinges.  Then decide.

[TheHire]

Ok well you guys convinced me to at least look into it, but I’m still skeptical for my case use. I look at my 335, daily driven for the past 9 years (holy crap 9 years already) and no issues with rust other than some underbody surface rust. I don’t know.

I’ll ask the tight a$$ed Porsche community to see what they do for their winter driven sports cars.

Remind me; we'll do it at our place without drilling holes. The European rust proofing stuff we use is better than Krown and Rust Check's cr*p anyway... no drip.

BTW, I looked under your 335 a few weeks ago, it's pretty spotless for never having been rust proofed. That said, the F30s have held up well overall in this regard.

[Hannibalsmith]

Ok well you guys convinced me to at least look into it, but I’m still skeptical for my case use. I look at my 335, daily driven for the past 9 years (holy crap 9 years already) and no issues with rust other than some underbody surface rust. I don’t know.

I’ll ask the tight a$$ed Porsche community to see what they do for their winter driven sports cars.

Remind me; we'll do it at our place without drilling holes. The European rust proofing stuff we use is better than Krown and Rust Check's cr*p anyway... no drip.

BTW, I looked under your 335 a few weeks ago, it's pretty spotless for never having been rust proofed. That said, the F30s have held up well overall in this regard.

Good to know thanks!

Did you do anything for the LC?

[rrocket]

. The European rust proofing stuff we use is better than Krown and Rust Check's cr*p anyway... no drip.

Do tell....

Brand?

[TheHire]

Ok well you guys convinced me to at least look into it, but I’m still skeptical for my case use. I look at my 335, daily driven for the past 9 years (holy crap 9 years already) and no issues with rust other than some underbody surface rust. I don’t know.

I’ll ask the tight a$$ed Porsche community to see what they do for their winter driven sports cars.

Remind me; we'll do it at our place without drilling holes. The European rust proofing stuff we use is better than Krown and Rust Check's cr*p anyway... no drip.

BTW, I looked under your 335 a few weeks ago, it's pretty spotless for never having been rust proofed. That said, the F30s have held up well overall in this regard.

Good to know thanks!

Did you do anything for the LC?

Yup, just had it oil sprayed this past week with its first oil change (just under 5,000km now). No drip and ready for dry winter days.

[Seafoam]

Ok well you guys convinced me to at least look into it, but I’m still skeptical for my case use. I look at my 335, daily driven for the past 9 years (holy crap 9 years already) and no issues with rust other than some underbody surface rust. I don’t know.

I’ll ask the tight a$$ed Porsche community to see what they do for their winter driven sports cars.

Remind me; we'll do it at our place without drilling holes. The European rust proofing stuff we use is better than Krown and Rust Check's cr*p anyway... no drip.

BTW, I looked under your 335 a few weeks ago, it's pretty spotless for never having been rust proofed. That said, the F30s have held up well overall in this regard.

Just because it doesn't drip doesn't make it better. It has to creep. If it doesn't creep it's crap.

[Firm]

^ Yes, there's a balance of ability to creep, and enough viscosity to hold up to the elements without washing away. That why I was a Rust Check guy....They use a thicker material (very similar to fluid film) on the underbody, wheel wells, etc, but use the thinner (red colored) product in all the inner panels, which creeps well and doesn't clog up the drain holes. Krown product, IMO, is too thin and wears off rather quick. Rust Cure 3000, which is kinda scarce, is the best single formula option I've come across.

[ktm525]

With Euro laws I can't see any decent product coming from there.

[rrocket]

With Euro laws I can't see any decent product coming from there.

I'm just curious to know what it is.

[ArticSteve]

Remind me; we'll do it at our place without drilling holes. The European rust proofing stuff we use is better than Krown and Rust Check's cr*p anyway... no drip.

The no drip is garbage.  It's used by shops whose business is not rust proofing.  They use it because it does not create a mess in the shop and they can make a fast buck.  DO NOT USE THE NO DRIP.

Drilling is not necessary with either Rust Check or Krown.

I know all about Rust Check.  It was invented by a TWA pilot who just happened to have a retreat up the Bruce Peninsula about 30 kms north of Owen Sound.  The original fluid was applied to TWA planes that flew over the oceans.  The very first shop was a small one car garage located on the side of a highway in the middle of nowhere very near this Pilots property.  The family who ran this small shop (circa 1990) now own the Owen Sound Krown operation which is a big one.  The have the DOD contract for the local Army base.

Well sometime in the early 90's a group of crooks bought Rust Check from this pilot and started to dilute the product.  Over the course of many years they declared bankruptcy 3 times to avoid paying warranty claims.  Eventually pretty well all the Rust Check dealers, after winning a long franchise court battle against Rust Check, formed a co-op and called it Krown.

At that point you could not give a Rust Operation away for free.  Ironically, the thing that kept Rust Check going is they sold cans of Rust Check at Crappy Tire.  They sold more of the stuff in aerosol cans at Crappy stores than they sprayed on vehicles.  And this lasted for at least a decade before people started buying Rust Check franchises because they didn't qualify for a Krown shop, being a CO-OP.  Rust Check operators are still at the mercy of the Company and it's product.  Like a Pizza franchise. 

Krown has 2 viscosities.  T40 and T32.

[Hannibalsmith]

^^ thx that was interesting background

[rrocket]

^^ thx that was interesting background

This is interesting...if you're bored.

Canadian military reviewed some rust inhibitors.

PDF file:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://corrosionfree.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Dept-of-Defence-Report-Highlighted-Text-copy.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwidrbuxwZqDAxV0ADQIHSTGBysQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2SZkbBo_lAa_4k9xlP8-KG

[ArticSteve]

I had to modify my little speech.  Due to lousy writing skills I wasn't clear about the family that operated the first Rust Check.  It was they (the Curickshanks) that led the franchise fight against Rust Check, spawned Krown and hence own and operate the Krown in Owen Sound.

Because I know the history of Rust Check, and know that if Rust Check had of prevailed then the vital service of "rust control" would be dismal in this country.  It was an epic battle start by family that had little money.  For this reason, I will not frequent a Rust Check location.  In the early years I did purchase the Rust Check spray cans from Crappy. 

However, much depends on who is applying the lubricant.  Is it the owner?  Some employee that doesn't want to be there .  It's a nasty job.  Consequently, between the two suppliers pick the one that you think puts the most effort in it or has the most time.

Go to Crappy and buy a can of "rust inhibitor".  Go to a Krown location and by a can of T40.  Can use them on anything metal.  Decide from there.

[ArticSteve]

^^ thx that was interesting background

This is interesting...if you're bored.

Canadian military reviewed some rust inhibitors.

PDF file:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://corrosionfree.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Dept-of-Defence-Report-Highlighted-Text-copy.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwidrbuxwZqDAxV0ADQIHSTGBysQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2SZkbBo_lAa_4k9xlP8-KG

Is Krown mentioned in there?  No way I can read that. 

[Firm]

Interesting background, thanks for sharing.

Down here, there is no professional option, and Fluid Film is all that I can find readily available. FF seems like a decent product though. I have a air sprayer (Rust Cure branded) with a wand and a home-built hose setup that allows me to get into most spots without drilling.

I also discovered these on Amazon and have been using them. Attach this to an aerosol can of product (I've been using FF, but whatever you have would be fine) and the hose is small enough that you can get into rocker panels and such through the drain holes or other gaps without having to drill.
https://www.amazon.com/Kittmip-Degree-Extension-Aerosol-Supplies/dp/B0C53PFRS5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1Z72BD475S9Q9&keywords=aerosol+360+nozzle&qid=1703003323&sprefix=aerosol+360+%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-2

[Bubba]

I have Christmas lights!  Or as NOMA calls them, "String Lights"!

[rrocket]

^^ thx that was interesting background

This is interesting...if you're bored.

Canadian military reviewed some rust inhibitors.

PDF file:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://corrosionfree.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/Dept-of-Defence-Report-Highlighted-Text-copy.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwidrbuxwZqDAxV0ADQIHSTGBysQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2SZkbBo_lAa_4k9xlP8-KG

Is Krown mentioned in there?  No way I can read that. 

It is!

[rrocket]

Interesting background, thanks for sharing.

Down here, there is no professional option, and Fluid Film is all that I can find readily available. FF seems like a decent product though. I have a air sprayer (Rust Cure branded) with a wand and a home-built hose setup that allows me to get into most spots without drilling.

I also discovered these on Amazon and have been using them. Attach this to an aerosol can of product (I've been using FF, but whatever you have would be fine) and the hose is small enough that you can get into rocker panels and such through the drain holes or other gaps without having to drill.
https://www.amazon.com/Kittmip-Degree-Extension-Aerosol-Supplies/dp/B0C53PFRS5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1Z72BD475S9Q9&keywords=aerosol+360+nozzle&qid=1703003323&sprefix=aerosol+360+%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-2

Was going to mention this.

You can buy most of these rust inhibitor products (and others) in bulk and/or cans.

And if you're Manly Man enough, you can put your car on a drive up ramp and do a real nice job yourself. Certainly a thorough job on most of the undercarriage and as far as you bang reach. But it's dirty (I had a cheapo Tyvek type painters hooded coverall) and takes some effort.

Not for everyone.

[ArticSteve]

I used to do it.  You need a gravel base.  The excess, and there is a lot, needs somewhere to go. 

[sszoomzoom]

My wife got her MX 30 back.
The water pump has been replaced and she is super happy to have her car back after over a month. She just did not like driving the loaner cx5 (non turbo). She’s used to instant torque and quiet.
The dealer took the water pump from a new MX 30 on their lot because there was not ETA for the new water pump they ordered.