Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[ktm525]

Replaced the sway bar bushings on the MDX this morning. It had a rattle over rough roads/packed ice  this past winter that hasn’t surfaced this summer over the smoother roads. Everything seems tight under there so thought I’d start with the bushings. If you can change a tire, you could change these on the MDX. However I won’t know if they solved the issue for a bit. Roads are bare and dry.

The Mevotech replacements are quality compared to OEM, even though listed as a OE quality. Ah well, I’ll get the Honda ones if these don’t work out. Not to worried since they are so inexpensive and easy to do.

Funny...my experience was the opposite.

The OEM sway bar bushings in the Honda Accord we had were inferior to the aftermarket ones.

And, oddly, only the rear ones had the issue.

Inferior in what way? Aftermarket (performance) ones can be stiffer and "better" performance but were they better overall construction and durability? IDK Either way the OE ones didn't make noise, were comfortable and lasted 13 years and 215k kms of fairly aggressive driving. When I removed them they still hadn't failed, just looked a little tired.

Aftermarket stuff is just so hit and miss I would rather not spend my time chancing it.

[bridgecity]

Replaced the sway bar bushings on the MDX this morning. It had a rattle over rough roads/packed ice  this past winter that hasn’t surfaced this summer over the smoother roads. Everything seems tight under there so thought I’d start with the bushings. If you can change a tire, you could change these on the MDX. However I won’t know if they solved the issue for a bit. Roads are bare and dry.

The Mevotech replacements are quality compared to OEM, even though listed as a OE quality. Ah well, I’ll get the Honda ones if these don’t work out. Not to worried since they are so inexpensive and easy to do.

Funny...my experience was the opposite.

The OEM sway bar bushings in the Honda Accord we had were inferior to the aftermarket ones.

And, oddly, only the rear ones had the issue.

Inferior in what way? Aftermarket (performance) ones can be stiffer and "better" performance but were they better overall construction and durability? IDK Either way the OE ones didn't make noise, were comfortable and lasted 13 years and 215k kms of fairly aggressive driving. When I removed them they still hadn't failed, just looked a little tired.

Aftermarket stuff is just so hit and miss I would rather not spend my time chancing it.

Like I said, the Mevotech ones are in comparison. Much much softer, and much less beefy. I should have take a few pictures and a video. Anyway, maybe they’ll last, but I highly doubt it. They’ll be punched out in a year. Maybe they have a higher quality one.

[Blueprint]

Swapped the tires on the Crossie last week, so the fleet is all on winter shoes now. CX-90 will need its 2nd lifetime fill-up soon, it just moved under a half tank.

[ktm525]

Replaced the sway bar bushings on the MDX this morning. It had a rattle over rough roads/packed ice  this past winter that hasn’t surfaced this summer over the smoother roads. Everything seems tight under there so thought I’d start with the bushings. If you can change a tire, you could change these on the MDX. However I won’t know if they solved the issue for a bit. Roads are bare and dry.

The Mevotech replacements are quality compared to OEM, even though listed as a OE quality. Ah well, I’ll get the Honda ones if these don’t work out. Not to worried since they are so inexpensive and easy to do.

Funny...my experience was the opposite.

The OEM sway bar bushings in the Honda Accord we had were inferior to the aftermarket ones.

And, oddly, only the rear ones had the issue.

Inferior in what way? Aftermarket (performance) ones can be stiffer and "better" performance but were they better overall construction and durability? IDK Either way the OE ones didn't make noise, were comfortable and lasted 13 years and 215k kms of fairly aggressive driving. When I removed them they still hadn't failed, just looked a little tired.

Aftermarket stuff is just so hit and miss I would rather not spend my time chancing it.

Like I said, the Mevotech ones are in comparison. Much much softer, and much less beefy. I should have take a few pictures and a video. Anyway, maybe they’ll last, but I highly doubt it. They’ll be punched out in a year. Maybe they have a higher quality one.

Sorry I wasn't clear I was asking Ron.

I just soured on aftermarket stuff when I had power control arms with a dodgy ball joint new out of the box? Like WTF? Also the mevotech heavy duty sway bars developed play in less than a year. I simply don't want to be replacing cheap stuff constantly. My time does have a little value. 

[rrocket]

Replaced the sway bar bushings on the MDX this morning. It had a rattle over rough roads/packed ice  this past winter that hasn’t surfaced this summer over the smoother roads. Everything seems tight under there so thought I’d start with the bushings. If you can change a tire, you could change these on the MDX. However I won’t know if they solved the issue for a bit. Roads are bare and dry.

The Mevotech replacements are quality compared to OEM, even though listed as a OE quality. Ah well, I’ll get the Honda ones if these don’t work out. Not to worried since they are so inexpensive and easy to do.

Funny...my experience was the opposite.

The OEM sway bar bushings in the Honda Accord we had were inferior to the aftermarket ones.

And, oddly, only the rear ones had the issue.

Inferior in what way? Aftermarket (performance) ones can be stiffer and "better" performance but were they better overall construction and durability? IDK Either way the OE ones didn't make noise, were comfortable and lasted 13 years and 215k kms of fairly aggressive driving. When I removed them they still hadn't failed, just looked a little tired.

Aftermarket stuff is just so hit and miss I would rather not spend my time chancing it.

Durability.  Split easily. Even had a set wear out after a few months. They were really, really soft.

No such issue with aftermarket.

[ktm525]

But soft is what gives you that compliant no bump OE ride. Soft and wears out is no good.

[rrocket]

But soft is what gives you that compliant no bump OE ride. Soft and wears out is no good.

Ya, that was the issue....they would split prematurely.

And only the rear.

[Bubba]

But soft is what gives you that compliant no bump OE ride. Soft and wears out is no good.

You need Hercules tires for that smooth, no bump ride.   

[Dante]

New X-Ice Snow SUV installed on the Outlander. Boy,  the winter tires have come a
long way with each generation in terms of comfort, noise, handling on dry warm pavement at low or (quite) high speeds....
Not sure how other brands are these days, but the Michelin are pretty damn good tires. Blizzak WS90 (on the GTI) are pretty good too and a far cry from what they were 10-12 years ago or so when I had exposure to them ( I think WS60 at the time).

Ready for the white stuff....

[ktm525]

But soft is what gives you that compliant no bump OE ride. Soft and wears out is no good.

You need Hercules tires for that smooth, no bump ride.   

I'm glad you picked up on that. Well done.

[Arthur Dent]

Clutch went out on my son's truck - 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 with 5spd. Pedal goes to the floor. So likely the master or slave cylinder. We can fix this no problem right? In the street even. Sure. Took a look at it. The slave cylinder is IN the transmission case not bolted to the outside. Ugh. Needs the transmission, transfer case, exhaust, etc all dropped. Some claim it is easier to take out the engine. Seriously GM? For the fricking work truck? 

So I have little interest (or garage space) in doing that work. Off to a mechanic I think.

[PJungnitsch]

Blech

Never heard of putting a slave inside the case!

Just as well GM gave up on truck manuals after a while

[ktm525]

PITA. My Volvo wagon was like that.

[sailor723]

Sounds like GM took lessons from some Germans I know. 

[Firm]

That's horrible lol. I guess it's a good thing the manual take rate was pretty low on those.

[Arthur Dent]

That's horrible lol. I guess it's a good thing the manual take rate was pretty low on those.

Not for him though. I guess the Corvette and some Mustangs also did it as well.

[ArticSteve]

PITA. My Volvo wagon was like that.

So was my 1990 944S2

When I did the clutch I did the slave although it was working perfectly.  I had a 1995 525 that had the slave on the outside.

[Gurgie]

PITA. My Volvo wagon was like that.

So was my 1990 944S2

Really? My 944 Turbo wasn't like that. Had the master & slave done 2 months after I bought it.

Sent from my SM-S901W using Tapatalk

[quadzilla]

Got my winters put on the car and it took the shop two days to do it. 

Dropped my car off yesterday, wheels/tires in the back, wheel lock on the dash. Great.

Get a call at 3pm asking where are the nuts for the winters. Um....I don't know. Tell them I'll find them tonight and either put them in the car or drop them off in the morning.

Go to my storage locker early this morning (so much for sleeping in) and can't find them. Fack!  Tell them just put new ones on. All is good again.

Drive to London to visit my mom and tell her the story and she says, I think you left them in my spare closet. Yep, there is where I put them. Stupid, stupid, stupid.  

Now I have a lot of spare nuts 

[ktm525]

Got my winters put on the car and it took the shop two days to do it. 

Dropped my car off yesterday, wheels/tires in the back, wheel lock on the dash. Great.

Get a call at 3pm asking where are the nuts for the winters. Um....I don't know. Tell them I'll find them tonight and either put them in the car or drop them off in the morning.

Go to my storage locker early this morning (so much for sleeping in) and can't find them. Fack!  Tell them just put new ones on. All is good again.

Drive to London to visit my mom and tell her the story and she says, I think you left them in my spare closet. Yep, there is where I put them. Stupid, stupid, stupid.  

Now I have a lot of spare nuts 

lol. Pro tip: keep things together. Nuts in ziploc bag taped to inside of one of the wheels they secure. Write down tightening torque on bag.