Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[EV Dan]

0W8 is coming..

I heard of someone bringing a new Crown for an oil change. The engine had a 0W8 label. Obviously the dealer used what they had stocked - the good "old" 16 weight...

It's in the owner's manual...16 weight fine if 8 not available.

Yes.
"The 8 in 0W-8 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

What's funny is my manual, referring to this exact engine, A25A FXS, lists 0W16 recommended and 0W20 for high speeds etc.
I don't suppose there's been any serious mechanical changes to this powerplant. The Crown does state better FE.
It is what it's all about, IMO, specifying thinner oils in order to state higher FE, at least on paper. Like I said many times before, I think these decisions are not made by Toyota engineers but rather up the chain of command. Car owners will be on the receiving end of these changes.

[rrocket]

Car owners will be on the receiving end of these changes.

....

[EV Dan]

^^^ did you just turn yourself into a meme?    If so, nice hat 

[EV Dan]

In 200,000 km, tell me which modern engine is more likely to have excessive oil consumption, the one run on 0W-8/16 with 16k change intervals or 0W-20 with 8k OCI?

[rrocket]

In 200,000 km, tell me which modern engine is more likely to have excessive oil consumption, the one run on 0W-8/16 with 16k change intervals or 0W-20 with 8k OCI?

At 200k? I don't think there's any difference at all, honestly. I don't think either engine burns appreciably more or less. Not enough to notice, anyways.

But if these thinner viscosity oils are truly frightening for you, maybe you should run straight 50 just to be safe.

[ktm525]

Normal conditions a wash? I wouldn't want 8W under heavy load for extended periods.

[bridgecity]

Didn't do anything to the vehicles today, but was going to place an order from Rockauto.  I had a bunch of items in the cart including engine and cabin air filters and a blower motor.  Shipping was from five different locations at a total cost of $117.  Say what?  Closed the browser and back to work .

[HeliDriver]

Finished the ghetto rust repair on the Yukon a while ago, but haven’t driven it much since.

Had it out in the sun yesterday and got to admire my (complete lack of) handiwork.

I took just a tiny bit of time to mask off the fenders with some sheets of paper before painting, but there were a few small spots on the doors where I didn’t bother. Figured the tape would be enough, and I’d be careful with the spray, and the paint matches anyway so what difference would it make…

Anyway, couple of weird bullseye things going on there.



Honestly, not too bothered by it on a 12-yo truck, but still kinda kicking myself for not spending 5 extra minutes to at least mask it off properly.

[ktm525]

Didn't do anything to the vehicles today, but was going to place an order from Rockauto.  I had a bunch of items in the cart including engine and cabin air filters and a blower motor.  Shipping was from five different locations at a total cost of $117.  Say what?  Closed the browser and back to work .

Gotta watch and group those delivery icons or it gets expensive.

[bridgecity]

Didn't do anything to the vehicles today, but was going to place an order from Rockauto.  I had a bunch of items in the cart including engine and cabin air filters and a blower motor.  Shipping was from five different locations at a total cost of $117.  Say what?  Closed the browser and back to work .

Gotta watch and group those delivery icons or it gets expensive.

Hmmm, wasn't aware that you could see the groupings prior to putting stuff in the cart.  That's embarrassing.  Frig that's handy, wonder how much I could have saved myself over the years  .  Thanks man, ending up changing up a few things and got it down to two shipping locations. 

[EV Dan]

Yep, RA can be like that. I recall ordering rotors and it was cheaper to ship it one by one than two in one parcel. Go figure.

[rrocket]

Didn't do anything to the vehicles today, but was going to place an order from Rockauto.  I had a bunch of items in the cart including engine and cabin air filters and a blower motor.  Shipping was from five different locations at a total cost of $117.  Say what?  Closed the browser and back to work .

Gotta watch and group those delivery icons or it gets expensive.

Hmmm, wasn't aware that you could see the groupings prior to putting stuff in the cart.  That's embarrassing.  Frig that's handy, wonder how much I could have saved myself over the years  .  Thanks man, ending up changing up a few things and got it down to two shipping locations.

Yes, it has a little truck icon near the blue "Info" icon on the top right with "A" or "B" etc  on them. See image.

It's a bit of a game to get all of them the same to save on shipping!

[Firm]

Finished the ghetto rust repair on the Yukon a while ago, but haven’t driven it much since.

Had it out in the sun yesterday and got to admire my (complete lack of) handiwork.

I took just a tiny bit of time to mask off the fenders with some sheets of paper before painting, but there were a few small spots on the doors where I didn’t bother. Figured the tape would be enough, and I’d be careful with the spray, and the paint matches anyway so what difference would it make…

Anyway, couple of weird bullseye things going on there.



Honestly, not too bothered by it on a 12-yo truck, but still kinda kicking myself for not spending 5 extra minutes to at least mask it off properly.

Some rubbing compound will take that overspray off lickey-split. If you have some on hand, you can wet-sand with 1500 grit first, then hit it with the compound, that'll save some elbow grease. If you use just the compound, it'll take more rubbing, but it'll come off.

[HeliDriver]

^^ Thanks! Might have to give that a try. 

[rrocket]

^^ Thanks! Might have to give that a try. 

Clay bar will work too

[HeliDriver]

^^ Thanks! Might have to give that a try. 

Clay bar will work too

Found an old can of Turtle Wax polishing compound in the garage. No idea why or when I bought it, but will give that a try first. Probably not as aggressive as rubbing compound, but I’ll give it a go.

Trying not to buy anything if I don’t have to. Have never owned or used a clay bar in my life. 

Found some 1500 and 2000 grit wet sandpaper in the garage as well. Packages never even opened. Probably bought for another project, then got too lazy to do a proper job.   

[rrocket]

Do the wet sandpaper first and then the polishing compound after.

That's the correct order of operation.

[Firm]

Do the wet sandpaper first and then the polishing compound after.

That's the correct order of operation.

Yep, and just do the 2000 grit, since you're working with a compound of unknown quality. 2000 wet, with a little sanding block (use one of those white erasers in a pinch) will take that overspray off pretty quick.

[rrocket]

Do the wet sandpaper first and then the polishing compound after.

That's the correct order of operation.

Yep, and just do the 2000 grit, since you're working with a compound of unknown quality. 2000 wet, with a little sanding block (use one of those white erasers in a pinch) will take that overspray off pretty quick.

Yep.

And don't forget to keep that sandpaper wet.

This is a pretty easy fix that will look great when done.

Looking forward to seeing results!

[HeliDriver]

Well, I’m still going to have a blotch of touch-up paint that doesn’t quite match, so I don’t think it will ever look “great.” But I’ll be happy with “not too terrible.” 

This ranks close to the bottom of my list of stuff I want to do, but I’ll try to get to it before winter. Will post pics when I do.

Oh, and here’s a pic of the ghetto rust repair on one of the fenders and 1/4 panel (I did all four.) Prolly should have used some bondo on that, or at least sanded it smooth before painting, but no patience for that either. Still better than a rusty fender anyway.