Auto Value and Part source used to repolish rotors for cheap, like $7 each. I don't think they do it anymore
Quote from: Firm on April 11, 2023, 01:41:14 pmLike KTM said, most shops do it now, reduces comebacks, and it hardly makes sense to machine a rotor these days given labor costs vs. the cost of a new rotor.I've reused rotors once and awhile, but only if they're in good shape (no rust, grooving, etc). European OE rotors tend to hold up, vs. other OEs where I find they're typically in pretty bad shape by the time you're replacing the pads.Also, in the old days, most pads were semi-metallic so they'd chew through the thickness of the rotor, but also kept the surface of the rotor pretty clean...so if you had thickness left, you could run it. Now days, with most cars using Ceramic pads, they're 'easier' on the rotor in that they don't wear as much, but they're also less effective at removing rust and other contaminants from the braking surface. As well, most pads operate with a transfer layer of pad material on the rotor, if that starts to build up unevenly for whatever reason (poor break-in, contamination, etC), you'll get shudder/vibration from the rotor - this happens way more frequently with modern ceramic pads than it did with old semi-metallic stuff.Good info here. I find I have to go do some repeated hard braking on the LR4 if the wife drives it too much in the city. It gets pad transfer and doesn't get "cleaned" up well enough. Some ahole driving by KTM takes care of that.
Like KTM said, most shops do it now, reduces comebacks, and it hardly makes sense to machine a rotor these days given labor costs vs. the cost of a new rotor.I've reused rotors once and awhile, but only if they're in good shape (no rust, grooving, etc). European OE rotors tend to hold up, vs. other OEs where I find they're typically in pretty bad shape by the time you're replacing the pads.Also, in the old days, most pads were semi-metallic so they'd chew through the thickness of the rotor, but also kept the surface of the rotor pretty clean...so if you had thickness left, you could run it. Now days, with most cars using Ceramic pads, they're 'easier' on the rotor in that they don't wear as much, but they're also less effective at removing rust and other contaminants from the braking surface. As well, most pads operate with a transfer layer of pad material on the rotor, if that starts to build up unevenly for whatever reason (poor break-in, contamination, etC), you'll get shudder/vibration from the rotor - this happens way more frequently with modern ceramic pads than it did with old semi-metallic stuff.
Quote from: WP v3.32 on April 11, 2023, 01:56:38 pmAuto Value and Part source used to repolish rotors for cheap, like $7 each. I don't think they do it anymorePartSource definitely does not do that, lol. As the person accountable for brake sales, that wouldn't fly with me Quote from: ktm525 on April 11, 2023, 01:51:41 pmQuote from: Firm on April 11, 2023, 01:41:14 pmLike KTM said, most shops do it now, reduces comebacks, and it hardly makes sense to machine a rotor these days given labor costs vs. the cost of a new rotor.I've reused rotors once and awhile, but only if they're in good shape (no rust, grooving, etc). European OE rotors tend to hold up, vs. other OEs where I find they're typically in pretty bad shape by the time you're replacing the pads.Also, in the old days, most pads were semi-metallic so they'd chew through the thickness of the rotor, but also kept the surface of the rotor pretty clean...so if you had thickness left, you could run it. Now days, with most cars using Ceramic pads, they're 'easier' on the rotor in that they don't wear as much, but they're also less effective at removing rust and other contaminants from the braking surface. As well, most pads operate with a transfer layer of pad material on the rotor, if that starts to build up unevenly for whatever reason (poor break-in, contamination, etC), you'll get shudder/vibration from the rotor - this happens way more frequently with modern ceramic pads than it did with old semi-metallic stuff.Good info here. I find I have to go do some repeated hard braking on the LR4 if the wife drives it too much in the city. It gets pad transfer and doesn't get "cleaned" up well enough. Some ahole driving by KTM takes care of that.The LR4 might even be using semi-met pads still....I know my XKR, which is on dealer installed OE replacement pads (from the previous owner) is using a semi-met formula, super dusty, but effective. The rotors appear to be factory originals, and while they've got some wear on them, are still in amazing shape for 13 years old.
I’ve always just replaced pads and rotors at the same time. If I’m going to go to the trouble of getting the car in the garage and up on jack stands, everything is getting replaced, whether it needs it or not. I almost made an exception for the GTI, though. Rotors were horribly rusty and pitted, but the pads had plenty of life left. Pads were semi-metallic, so doesn’t fit with the ceramic-is-harder-on-rotors narrative. Maybe the rotors were just really crappy to start with (Centric.)
Quote from: HeliDriver on April 11, 2023, 02:17:16 pmI’ve always just replaced pads and rotors at the same time. If I’m going to go to the trouble of getting the car in the garage and up on jack stands, everything is getting replaced, whether it needs it or not. I almost made an exception for the GTI, though. Rotors were horribly rusty and pitted, but the pads had plenty of life left. Pads were semi-metallic, so doesn’t fit with the ceramic-is-harder-on-rotors narrative. Maybe the rotors were just really crappy to start with (Centric.)Pad replacement is dead easy though, one or two bolts to remove the caliper, slide the old pads out, put the new ones in and push the caliper back.Rotor replacement can be a real pain when the rotor screws are seized or the rotors are seized to the hubs.
Quote from: Firm on April 11, 2023, 01:41:14 pmLike KTM said, most shops do it now, reduces comebacks, and it hardly makes sense to machine a rotor these days given labor costs vs. the cost of a new rotor.I've reused rotors once and awhile, but only if they're in good shape (no rust, grooving, etc). European OE rotors tend to hold up, vs. other OEs where I find they're typically in pretty bad shape by the time you're replacing the pads.Also, in the old days, most pads were semi-metallic so they'd chew through the thickness of the rotor, but also kept the surface of the rotor pretty clean...so if you had thickness left, you could run it. Now days, with most cars using Ceramic pads, they're 'easier' on the rotor in that they don't wear as much, but they're also less effective at removing rust and other contaminants from the braking surface. As well, most pads operate with a transfer layer of pad material on the rotor, if that starts to build up unevenly for whatever reason (poor break-in, contamination, etC), you'll get shudder/vibration from the rotor - this happens way more frequently with modern ceramic pads than it did with old semi-metallic stuff.Interesting and good to know. I think I've had more problems with rotors rusting and grooving since ceramic pads came along than ever before with metallic padsAlso now, the price of pads is nuts, looking for performance pads for the Miata and prices are nuts for those little things.
GTI had rotor screws as well. Can’t remember, but might have been a Torx head? Don’t remember having any issues with those. The issue with Honda is that people aren’t using the right tools. It’s a JIS screw and you’ll just strip it out if you try to use a Phillips bit.
Quote from: blur911 on April 11, 2023, 02:00:43 pmQuote from: Firm on April 11, 2023, 01:41:14 pmLike KTM said, most shops do it now, reduces comebacks, and it hardly makes sense to machine a rotor these days given labor costs vs. the cost of a new rotor.I've reused rotors once and awhile, but only if they're in good shape (no rust, grooving, etc). European OE rotors tend to hold up, vs. other OEs where I find they're typically in pretty bad shape by the time you're replacing the pads.Also, in the old days, most pads were semi-metallic so they'd chew through the thickness of the rotor, but also kept the surface of the rotor pretty clean...so if you had thickness left, you could run it. Now days, with most cars using Ceramic pads, they're 'easier' on the rotor in that they don't wear as much, but they're also less effective at removing rust and other contaminants from the braking surface. As well, most pads operate with a transfer layer of pad material on the rotor, if that starts to build up unevenly for whatever reason (poor break-in, contamination, etC), you'll get shudder/vibration from the rotor - this happens way more frequently with modern ceramic pads than it did with old semi-metallic stuff.Interesting and good to know. I think I've had more problems with rotors rusting and grooving since ceramic pads came along than ever before with metallic padsAlso now, the price of pads is nuts, looking for performance pads for the Miata and prices are nuts for those little things.Have you checked to see if there are Stoptech pads available for it? Tdot Performance has a sale going on right now, extra 10% off. I had the Stoptech Sport Performance pads on the 951 and they were great on the track & street. I just ordered the Stoptech Street pads for the SLK from Tdot today. Yesterday when I was doing the tire swap I noticed the fronts are getting low, so figured I'd order some.https://www.buybrakes.com/help/stoptech-brake-pads-vs-oem-brake-pads/#:~:text=StopTech%20Is%20One%20Of%20The,brake%20pad%20brands%20out%20there.
There 2 kind of phillips!? I hate those,
Yes LR4 still uses a semi metallic pad which is why most Land Rovers have black front wheels. I can get 2 sets of pads on those rotors (OE(Brembo) or Zimmermann) but then the rotors are too thin. Honda rotors last much longer but pads are not as aggressive. A tip on getting the rotor screw out is to tighten the screw a bit first and then loosen. Also slather some breaker spray (of your choice) and a little torch heat. If you don't have an impact then tap a driver with a mallet as you are trying to break it free. Using this method I have a 100% success rate.As a side note for fun my Ridgeline consumes rear brake pads much faster than fronts. I attributed it to the stability control trying to reel in a prick but others have mentioned it may be just a weird brake proportioning on light stops.
