Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[rrocket]

That’s why every shop tells you to come back for a retorque after 100 km.

Even properly torqued nuts can come loose.

All 5 nuts?  At once?  Nonsense.

The only time I've seen nuts come loose within 100km was on brand new wheels (which is a known "thing").

Have been literally switching wheels on multiple sets of cars for 20+ years and have NEVER, EVER had lugs come loose on me after being torqued properly.  EVER.

And 1) No way am I that lucky  2) No way do I have any special skills.

Sorry..just not buying it.  Too much of a coincidence for me.

YMMV.

[Firm]

You having an assistant pump the brakes?

Yeah, had my wife help out this time.

Anyway, not her fault.  Went back for another look and found brake fluid all over the right rear caliper and lower control arm. Oops, didn’t tighten the bleed screw enough. 

Got her help again and started from scratch. Just took it for a drive and pedal feels great now!

Also a comment on that board thing: VW service manual says push the pedal right to the floor. Been doing that since I did the first bleed maybe 10 years ago and haven’t had a problem yet.

I’ll probably invest in some kind of pressure bleeder if I ever do this again, but I’m kinda thinking I might not ever do this again. 

Right to the floor is correct (IMO). However, the speed/pressure used to get there is important. Slam your foot to the floor quickly and you can trip the fail-safe if a dual circuit master, or in the distribution block. Depending on the design, some are a pain to reset.

[HeliDriver]

That’s why every shop tells you to come back for a retorque after 100 km.

Even properly torqued nuts can come loose.

All 5 nuts?  At once?  Nonsense.

The only time I've seen nuts come loose within 100km was on brand new wheels (which is a known "thing").

Have been literally switching wheels on multiple sets of cars for 20+ years and have NEVER, EVER had lugs come loose on me after being torqued properly.  EVER.

And 1) No way am I that lucky  2) No way do I have any special skills.

Sorry..just not buying it.  Too much of a coincidence for me.

YMMV.

Yeah, well, like I said it’s happened to me.

Maybe not all five loose at the same time, but had one come loose enough that the whole wheel was vibrating on the highway. One was barely on and another couple were finger right IIRC.

I will say that it was only an issue on the Civic. OE wheels, and not new.

Still, I always do a retorque after a tire change and on every vehicle it’s not unusual to have a few nuts that need a little extra tightening.

Retorques aren’t a crazy thing. It’s SOP in aviation (actually called a torque check): tighten a nut/bolt then check it again after a few hours of flying. They can and do come loose.

[EV Dan]

Yeah, that cap thing can be a problem. Good if you can get one, sometimes not that easy. And some masters have press fit caps too. Get it wrong and the engine bay takes a bath with pressurized brake fluid. Ask me how I know 

Like that suction machine idea. Think I have a hand pump that does the same thing, but capacity is an issue

Mine looks exactly like this, I found it on clearance at princessauto. Ppl don't realize there need to be a compressor to run it so I guess there were many returns and resulting cancellation of the item.

[EV Dan]

The Morozov way, funny in parts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkCP1YWuQVQ

[rrocket]

That’s why every shop tells you to come back for a retorque after 100 km.

Even properly torqued nuts can come loose.

All 5 nuts?  At once?  Nonsense.

The only time I've seen nuts come loose within 100km was on brand new wheels (which is a known "thing").

Have been literally switching wheels on multiple sets of cars for 20+ years and have NEVER, EVER had lugs come loose on me after being torqued properly.  EVER.

And 1) No way am I that lucky  2) No way do I have any special skills.

Sorry..just not buying it.  Too much of a coincidence for me.

YMMV.

Yeah, well, like I said it’s happened to me.

Maybe not all five loose at the same time, but had one come loose enough that the whole wheel was vibrating on the highway. One was barely on and another couple were finger right IIRC.

I will say that it was only an issue on the Civic. OE wheels, and not new.

Still, I always do a retorque after a tire change and on every vehicle it’s not unusual to have a few nuts that need a little extra tightening.

Retorques aren’t a crazy thing. It’s SOP in aviation (actually called a torque check): tighten a nut/bolt then check it again after a few hours of flying. They can and do come loose.

Sorry..wasn't saying it didn't happen to you.  Was just saying I didn't believe this was a "normal" issue of the wheel looseing itself....especially after being in for service.  Too much coincidence for me.  Have heard way, way too many instances of this happening.

I've used the Toyota nuts and tuner lugs.  Never had any come loose.  The opposite at wheel change: Did I put these on THAT tight??   

100% believe re-torque on aircraft.  Aircraft cyclical vibration (I've been told) does very odd things.

[HeliDriver]

They also make a simple one man bleeder tool with a small check valve in it that works.  Have never used one...but hear those work well too.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143

Oh, I actually have one of those, I’ve only used it on the dirt bike. Seems to work fine, but not really necessary on the bike as you can grab the lever/pedal with one hand and wrench on the bleed nipple with the other.

Didn’t even think to use it on the car.

[tortoise]

Sorry..wasn't saying it didn't happen to you.  Was just saying I didn't believe this was a "normal" issue of the wheel looseing itself....especially after being in for service.  Too much coincidence for me.  Have heard way, way too many instances of this happening

This is my take too, I've never had lug nuts come loose before, and any time I've checked them they have been fine. They definitely up.

The annoying part is that when I brought the Golf there in the summer they had cranked the lug bolts so tight I had to stand on the breaker bar to get them loose.

So I mentioned this when I brought the Highlander in and they assured me they would use the torque wrench. Might need to find a new tire shop.

[KD]

^ Nice work.

I had a brief battle with a couple of torx screws last week when trying to remove some equipment at work.  Ended up clamping a small vise grip wrench to the bit and eventually got them out, but not without lots of knuckle wracking and liberal use of swear words.   

Canadian Tire sells a hex bit ratchet set, it's tiny and the best thing for getting into tight spots.  Get it on sale of course.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-bit-wrench-set-29-pc-0588626p.html

Yeah, got lots of specialty tools but they are all in my truck, which has been in for service for the last three weeks waiting for more parts.  Luckily I don't need tools on a regular basis, but really sucks when you need something right now.  Feel lost at work without my normal truck...lol 

[ktm525]

You having an assistant pump the brakes?

Yeah, had my wife help out this time.

Anyway, not her fault.  Went back for another look and found brake fluid all over the right rear caliper and lower control arm. Oops, didn’t tighten the bleed screw enough. 

Got her help again and started from scratch. Just took it for a drive and pedal feels great now!

Also a comment on that board thing: VW ALLdata service manual says push the pedal right to the floor. Been doing that since I did the first bleed maybe 10 years ago and haven’t had a problem yet.

I’ll probably invest in some kind of pressure bleeder if I ever do this again, but I’m kinda thinking I might not ever do this again. 

The upside is you now have a very thorough flush.  If I can rope someone in i just use the pumping method or if I am doing other brake/vehicle work I use gravity bleed. A few beers, relax and bleed the brakes. Works good when relatives are over...

[blur911]

Sorry..wasn't saying it didn't happen to you.  Was just saying I didn't believe this was a "normal" issue of the wheel looseing itself....especially after being in for service.  Too much coincidence for me.  Have heard way, way too many instances of this happening

This is my take too, I've never had lug nuts come loose before, and any time I've checked them they have been fine. They definitely up.

The annoying part is that when I brought the Golf there in the summer they had cranked the lug bolts so tight I had to stand on the breaker bar to get them loose.

So I mentioned this when I brought the Highlander in and they assured me they would use the torque wrench. Might need to find a new tire shop.

I've had it happen twice  ever.   Both times were after a track event,  one about 20 years ago and the other just last summer.  Coming home from Shannonville with the Miata and I heard a slight squeak and car didn't feel quite right.  Stopped and tightened driver's rear, got about a turn on every nut.    I think it's the heat cycles and co-efficient of expansion thing between aluminum and steel that causes it.

[EV Dan]

Sorry..wasn't saying it didn't happen to you.  Was just saying I didn't believe this was a "normal" issue of the wheel looseing itself....especially after being in for service.  Too much coincidence for me.  Have heard way, way too many instances of this happening

This is my take too, I've never had lug nuts come loose before, and any time I've checked them they have been fine. They definitely up.

The annoying part is that when I brought the Golf there in the summer they had cranked the lug bolts so tight I had to stand on the breaker bar to get them loose.

So I mentioned this when I brought the Highlander in and they assured me they would use the torque wrench. Might need to find a new tire shop.

I've had it happen twice  ever.   Both times were after a track event,  one about 20 years ago and the other just last summer.  Coming home from Shannonville with the Miata and I heard a slight squeak and car didn't feel quite right.  Stopped and tightened driver's rear, got about a turn on every nut.    I think it's the heat cycles and co-efficient of expansion thing between aluminum and steel that causes it.

My theory is when a wheel is not seated properly or evenly on top of the hub, lug nuts will tighten but then, as you drive off, the wheel will spring off the wrong position and now it has a play. What I do is after mounting a wheel on studs, I push it in and turn it left and right a couple of times to make sure it is seated, then while holding it, put on and hand tighten the bottom lug nut and then the rest of them with first an impact (lightly) and finally a TQ wrench. I don't recall the last time anything needed to be re-tightened.
Obviously tire shops are out there to make a quick buck so they are unlikely to be as thorough or caring.

[EV Dan]

Fresh cabin filter. Half a year after a previous replacement it was dirty grey, as opposed to the original sky blue:



Part number: 6092C. RA has a very good price if you buy a lot.

[blur911]

I found the coolant leak

[EV Dan]

^^^ Hmmm... the serpentine belt is off and something big is missing.... a water pump? 

[blur911]

^^^ Hmmm... the serpentine belt is off and something big is missing.... a water pump? 

Lots missing and sitting out of the way.  Intake manifold is off.
See that rusty looking pipe right in the middle of the picture, right above the acorns where it splits and sends a line to the throttle body, there is a pinhole.

[HeliDriver]

Yeah, I still don't know what I'm looking at. Looks like a nest of rusty tapeworms?   

Is this the Subaru you got for free? (It was on its way to the junkyard or something and you rescued it? Can't remember the details.)

Are you going to fix it, or is this the end? 

[blur911]

Yeah, I still don't know what I'm looking at. Looks like a nest of rusty tapeworms?   

Is this the Subaru you got for free? (It was on its way to the junkyard or something and you rescued it? Can't remember the details.)

Are you going to fix it, or is this the end? 

Yeah, 2005 with 365k or something.   Anyhow, it just needs a coolant line, basically a hard line going to the heater, and now a pair of intake gaskets.  Just a PITA to get at.
Subaru engines aren't much to look at.  Kinda shaped like a suitcase on life support.

[rrocket]

Yeah, I still don't know what I'm looking at. Looks like a nest of rusty tapeworms?  [emoji14] 

Is this the Subaru you got for free? (It was on its way to the junkyard or something and you rescued it? Can't remember the details.)

Are you going to fix it, or is this the end? 

Yeah, 2005 with 365k or something.   Anyhow, it just needs a coolant line, basically a hard line going to the heater, and now a pair of intake gaskets.  Just a PITA to get at.
Subaru engines aren't much to look at.  Kinda shaped like a suitcase on life support.

Your dedication to this repair is impressive.

[blur911]

Yeah, I still don't know what I'm looking at. Looks like a nest of rusty tapeworms?  [emoji14] 

Is this the Subaru you got for free? (It was on its way to the junkyard or something and you rescued it? Can't remember the details.)

Are you going to fix it, or is this the end? 

Yeah, 2005 with 365k or something.   Anyhow, it just needs a coolant line, basically a hard line going to the heater, and now a pair of intake gaskets.  Just a PITA to get at.
Subaru engines aren't much to look at.  Kinda shaped like a suitcase on life support.

Your dedication to this repair is impressive.

Meh, I really didn't want to have to remove the intake, but it wasn't too bad.
I just ordered the parts from Autopartsway.ca, Subaru said everyone is on vacation and don't expect it before a week, So ordered online for cheaper and at least same delivery.

Did I mention the Cayenne just did similar, also in MIL's driveway?   Looks like the coolant reservoir cracked, new one should be here tomorrow.