Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[ktm525]

Also just noticed the pic. Is paving your driveway in asphalt normal down east? Here in Calgary it is 99% concrete. What's up?

Quote for my driveway in concrete ~$25,000

Quote in asphalt ~$3,500

I went with asphalt.

Same here, asphalt was $5K, concrete was a stupid amount.

Interesting. Perhaps it has something to do with more frost in the ground out west? Calgary, Edmonton, Saskatoon all have concrete. Do they typically run the utilities (at least the sewer) out front under the driveway? I have a larger exposed aggregate driveway that I should pave next time lol.

[Blueprint]

Slow leak in the right rear tire of the Audi, picked up by the out-of-wheel sensors while daughter was leaving for work. Indeed, it was down to 25 psi from the initial 38 psi. I pumped it up and let her leave with the car (surface streets only, short commute). It stayed where it was set for the day. Heading to Costco tomorrow morning for free repair (Blizzaks bought there in 2017).

The TMPS light came on in the Higlander yesterday.  Tires look fine, I'll check the pressures today.  I was driving into a pretty heavy wind and was being buffeted, wondering if that would be enough to trigger it.

The crazy part is that there's a reset button next to the OBD port below the dash.  Just press it and the light goes away.  So simple.

Back from Costco for the free repair. Big nail in the right rear. The non-intrusive TPMS sensors really work well! Reset is through the MMI interface (aka the screen), Costco tech even did it.

[Firm]

Went to do some Christmas shopping and the DTS was starting kinda slow, even though I've been keeping the battery topped up on a maintainer periodically due to my limited usage right now. I had a 'new' (1 year old) AC Delco battery, the correct group 79 (which is really obscure, only a handful of GMs used it), on hand, so I figured I'd swap it out proactively. Battery is under the rear seat in the DTS, so I was not looking forward to it, but I was surprised....Keeping the battery in the car has some merits; all the connections are nice and clean, as is the hold down, so no corrosion or dirt to deal with. I used a booster pack on the jump points under the hood to keep the car powered up during the swap too, so no need to reset everything. 20 minutes flat, including getting the battery and tools out.
Starts great now, and I have peace of mind knowing it's got a fresh battery. Old battery was an Interstate dated 2015, so not terribly old, but probably due.

[ChaosphereIX]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

[Hannibalsmith]

Got a Thule rack for the 4Runner...picking it up this week and hoping to install it later on.

[Blueprint]

Went to do some Christmas shopping and the DTS was starting kinda slow, even though I've been keeping the battery topped up on a maintainer periodically due to my limited usage right now. I had a 'new' (1 year old) AC Delco battery, the correct group 79 (which is really obscure, only a handful of GMs used it), on hand, so I figured I'd swap it out proactively. Battery is under the rear seat in the DTS, so I was not looking forward to it, but I was surprised....Keeping the battery in the car has some merits; all the connections are nice and clean, as is the hold down, so no corrosion or dirt to deal with. I used a booster pack on the jump points under the hood to keep the car powered up during the swap too, so no need to reset everything. 20 minutes flat, including getting the battery and tools out.
Starts great now, and I have peace of mind knowing it's got a fresh battery. Old battery was an Interstate dated 2015, so not terribly old, but probably due.

The dealer gave me a quote to swap the 12V battery on the A3 - $1,044. The part itself is nearly $700, the rest involves between 3 and 4 hours of dark forest rituals, secret codes and proprietary software.

[ktm525]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

[blur911]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

[ChaosphereIX]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. Remember it is a 5.0L supercharged motor putting out 620hp / 600tq. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor. Edit: recommended oil changes are 1yr / 26k from JLR, which IMO is way too long.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

[ktm525]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

[blur911]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

Well, maybe he could swap in an LS if/when it blows. 
Just like the old XJs from the '80s     

Geez, you gotta be a bit nuts to own a Jag

[Great_Big_Abyss]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

Well, maybe he could swap in an LS if/when it blows. 
Just like the old XJs from the '80s     

Geez, you gotta be a bit nuts to own a Jag

Are there really any truly reliable 'uber' sedans? 

Comparable vehicles to the S/C Jag would be something like a BMW 7-series or a MB S-class AMG with a V8 or (or the V12 S600).  An Audi S8.  None of these are 'reliable' vehicles, and when the engine goes, will set you back insane amounts of money.  The Porsche Panamera may actually be the only example that might be considered a good used buy.

And no, I wouldn't consider a Lexus LS of ANY ilk an 'uber' sedan to compete with the likes of this Jag.  The LS is just too sedate. 

Honestly, I think this Jag fits right in with all the other major players as far as reliability/cost/dependability is concerned.  You wanna play in the 'uber-sedan' playground, you're gonna pay at some point.  Just as Hoovie, lol.

[me_2]

The dealer gave me a quote to swap the 12V battery on the A3 - $1,044. The part itself is nearly $700, the rest involves between 3 and 4 hours of dark forest rituals, secret codes and proprietary software.

   

[Great_Big_Abyss]

The dealer gave me a quote to swap the 12V battery on the A3 - $1,044. The part itself is nearly $700, the rest involves between 3 and 4 hours of dark forest rituals, secret codes and proprietary software.

   

This is just the 'regular' 12v battery, and not the hybrid battery?!?

[ktm525]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

Well, maybe he could swap in an LS if/when it blows. 
Just like the old XJs from the '80s     

Geez, you gotta be a bit nuts to own a Jag

Are there really any truly reliable 'uber' sedans? 

Comparable vehicles to the S/C Jag would be something like a BMW 7-series or a MB S-class AMG with a V8 or (or the V12 S600).  An Audi S8.  None of these are 'reliable' vehicles, and when the engine goes, will set you back insane amounts of money.  The Porsche Panamera may actually be the only example that might be considered a good used buy.

And no, I wouldn't consider a Lexus LS of ANY ilk an 'uber' sedan to compete with the likes of this Jag.  The LS is just too sedate. 

Honestly, I think this Jag fits right in with all the other major players as far as reliability/cost/dependability is concerned.  You wanna play in the 'uber-sedan' playground, you're gonna pay at some point.  Just as Hoovie, lol.

Yes this is why the market value of old uber sedans is so low. It is a great ride until it isn't lol.  As long as one is not using them as a daily driver, can a turn a wrench and can walk away if things go BOOM then the old expensive car lottery can be quite rewarding.

[me_2]

The dealer gave me a quote to swap the 12V battery on the A3 - $1,044. The part itself is nearly $700, the rest involves between 3 and 4 hours of dark forest rituals, secret codes and proprietary software.

   

This is just the 'regular' 12v battery, and not the hybrid battery?!?

It is my reading too.

[Triple Bob]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

Well, maybe he could swap in an LS if/when it blows. 
Just like the old XJs from the '80s     

Geez, you gotta be a bit nuts to own a Jag

Are there really any truly reliable 'uber' sedans? 

Comparable vehicles to the S/C Jag would be something like a BMW 7-series or a MB S-class AMG with a V8 or (or the V12 S600).  An Audi S8.  None of these are 'reliable' vehicles, and when the engine goes, will set you back insane amounts of money.  The Porsche Panamera may actually be the only example that might be considered a good used buy.

And no, I wouldn't consider a Lexus LS of ANY ilk an 'uber' sedan to compete with the likes of this Jag.  The LS is just too sedate. 

Honestly, I think this Jag fits right in with all the other major players as far as reliability/cost/dependability is concerned.  You wanna play in the 'uber-sedan' playground, you're gonna pay at some point.  Just as Hoovie, lol.

Yes this is why the market value of old uber sedans is so low. It is a great ride until it isn't lol.  As long as one is not using them as a daily driver, can a turn a wrench and can walk away if things go BOOM then the old expensive car lottery can be quite rewarding.

Isn't Chaos a Jag tech though, with access to cheaper oil and parts? If I was in his shoes I'd do the same! 

[Ex-airbalancer]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

Well, maybe he could swap in an LS if/when it blows. 
Just like the old XJs from the '80s     

Geez, you gotta be a bit nuts to own a Jag

Are there really any truly reliable 'uber' sedans? 

Comparable vehicles to the S/C Jag would be something like a BMW 7-series or a MB S-class AMG with a V8 or (or the V12 S600).  An Audi S8.  None of these are 'reliable' vehicles, and when the engine goes, will set you back insane amounts of money.  The Porsche Panamera may actually be the only example that might be considered a good used buy.

And no, I wouldn't consider a Lexus LS of ANY ilk an 'uber' sedan to compete with the likes of this Jag.  The LS is just too sedate. 

Honestly, I think this Jag fits right in with all the other major players as far as reliability/cost/dependability is concerned.  You wanna play in the 'uber-sedan' playground, you're gonna pay at some point.  Just as Hoovie, lol.

Yes this is why the market value of old uber sedans is so low. It is a great ride until it isn't lol.  As long as one is not using them as a daily driver, can a turn a wrench and can walk away if things go BOOM then the old expensive car lottery can be quite rewarding.

Isn't Chaos a Jag tech though, with access to cheaper oil and parts? If I was in his shoes I'd do the same! 

Not a tech but service swindle 

[rrocket]

Went to do some Christmas shopping and the DTS was starting kinda slow, even though I've been keeping the battery topped up on a maintainer periodically due to my limited usage right now. I had a 'new' (1 year old) AC Delco battery, the correct group 79 (which is really obscure, only a handful of GMs used it), on hand, so I figured I'd swap it out proactively. Battery is under the rear seat in the DTS, so I was not looking forward to it, but I was surprised....Keeping the battery in the car has some merits; all the connections are nice and clean, as is the hold down, so no corrosion or dirt to deal with. I used a booster pack on the jump points under the hood to keep the car powered up during the swap too, so no need to reset everything. 20 minutes flat, including getting the battery and tools out.
Starts great now, and I have peace of mind knowing it's got a fresh battery. Old battery was an Interstate dated 2015, so not terribly old, but probably due.

The dealer gave me a quote to swap the 12V battery on the A3 - $1,044. The part itself is nearly $700, the rest involves between 3 and 4 hours of dark forest rituals, secret codes and proprietary software.

WHAT?

[ChaosphereIX]

Changed the oil. Next oil change in 5k also includes coolant flush.

Coolant flush? Doesn't the coolant get swapped anyhow every other oil change along with a water pump and all the plastic crossovers? 

Needs oil changes every 5k, must be a delicate flower of a motor 

You bet your ass, I don't want a spun bearing or jumped timing due to old oil. 5k might be overkill, but I do not care and do not want to take chances with a $30k motor.

And this car has not had one drop of coolant go amiss, still on original fill.

Ahh the joys of the AJ 5.0L

The timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and have two problems. The first is that the the little orifice which provides oil pressure to tension the chain are tiny. Any gunky oil and you are fubar. The second is a poor design (aluminum wear surface) where the tensioner actuator pushes on the tensioner. In extreme cases the timing chain will skip teeth but it will be a loud racket long before then. This noise informs the owner he is looking at a $5-$10k repair bill to address the chains.

The cooling system is glass jaw long term. Keep on eye on it weekly. If you are lucky you will get a few drips of coolant down the front indicating a failing pump (I think they are on their 4-5th redesign now) or plastic failure. If and when the cooling system fails it is generally immediate and catastrophic. Due to the systems design you will not even get a low fluid and or overheat indication. Simply a seize. As mentioned N/A engines are $12k US used plus about $5k in labour to put in. The fancy S/C ones? Probably $30k is not crazy. 

Ford made these engines until just last year where Jag / Land Rover took over production.

Other than that (well there are the drawbacks to an old first gen DI design of dirty intake valves) the engine is solid lol. It has a Denso brain.

Well, maybe he could swap in an LS if/when it blows. 
Just like the old XJs from the '80s     

Geez, you gotta be a bit nuts to own a Jag

Are there really any truly reliable 'uber' sedans? 

Comparable vehicles to the S/C Jag would be something like a BMW 7-series or a MB S-class AMG with a V8 or (or the V12 S600).  An Audi S8.  None of these are 'reliable' vehicles, and when the engine goes, will set you back insane amounts of money.  The Porsche Panamera may actually be the only example that might be considered a good used buy.

And no, I wouldn't consider a Lexus LS of ANY ilk an 'uber' sedan to compete with the likes of this Jag.  The LS is just too sedate. 

Honestly, I think this Jag fits right in with all the other major players as far as reliability/cost/dependability is concerned.  You wanna play in the 'uber-sedan' playground, you're gonna pay at some point.  Just as Hoovie, lol.

Yes this is why the market value of old uber sedans is so low. It is a great ride until it isn't lol.  As long as one is not using them as a daily driver, can a turn a wrench and can walk away if things go BOOM then the old expensive car lottery can be quite rewarding.

Isn't Chaos a Jag tech though, with access to cheaper oil and parts? If I was in his shoes I'd do the same! 

Not a tech but service swindle 

Lol yeah not a tech, service advisor. I can turn a wrench, and I indeed get access to very cheap OEM parts and very cheap labour. So 5k oil changes is no hardship for me and cheap insurance.

My engine has the redesigned coolant hoses, the latest waterpump, and the hardened timing tensioners. Was fastidiously serviced by original previous owner. OCD oil changes, should have no problems. Even have redesigned parts ready in case the original supercharger isolator spring fails (they can, especially with the more powerful motors). Replace with poly mount, never have to change again.