Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[Dante]

VW/Audi comes with the rock guard coating from the factory along the rocker panels.

It's functional and useful IMO.

[Great_Big_Abyss]

VW/Audi comes with the rock guard coating from the factory along the rocker panels.

It's functional and useful IMO.

The Tundra also had the rockguard coating along the rocker panels.

[BWII]

Picked it up from the body shop.

Looks functional. I like it.

Mind if I ask how much it cost? And are you/they pretty confident this will last more than a few years without the rust coming back?

Not at all.  I was quoted $1500 but I asked them to do the inner rear wheel openings so I'd guess a wee bit more.  Another body shop quoted $2800 IIRC - and likely more because you know...shop materials  (probably).  They also seemed to have put some kind of sticky greasy shi# on the back, so maybe they RC'd it, not sure.  I was thinking I might have to start doing the same if I want it to last another 10+ yrs.

Funny my youngest bro in AB just had his corners only (didn't do the rocker panels) done for $1400 - some guy he knows from church or something who does it for fun.  Good enough (looks good too) - he was quoted $5100 from a body shop.  It's like a furnace in ON...facking insane!    I don't think he paid that for the truck.

VW/Audi comes with the rock guard coating from the factory along the rocker panels.

It's functional and useful IMO.

The Tundra also had the rockguard coating along the rocker panels.

For whatever reason, there is/was no rock guard from the factory on it.  I guess it has it now. On the cab at least.

[TheHire]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

Lol, I thought I was OCD about my cars, and I maintain that I still am, but then I met you... 

My service manager wanted to take off your "friends and family" discount for his pain and suffering   

[Great_Big_Abyss]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

Lol, I thought I was OCD about my cars, and I maintain that I still am, but then I met you... 

My service manager wanted to take off your "friends and family" discount for his pain and suffering   

Hey man, your name isn't CarCRAZY!!!!

[Dante]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

Lol, I thought I was OCD about my cars, and I maintain that I still am, but then I met you... 

My service manager wanted to take off your "friends and family" discount for his pain and suffering   

LOL.... If he felt that way remind him to send me a "thank you card" for giving him all the P/Ns validated and ready to go in a spreadsheet, kept him from ordering the wrong parts or unnecessary and expensive parts which you would have to return after all or be stuck with them.... 

I'll give it to you - I'm anal when it comes to the integrity, cleanness, maintenance of my cars and hell yeah, I do my homework before going into a shop... OCD?... yeah, maybe, I give you a wildcard to tease me about that ...

Damn, you should like customers like me as it's a stream generator for the shop plus, if I could just bring my parts in, there would be no work at all for the service advisor.... Nil, nada, zilch.
I typically know exactly what parts I want to put in my car and chose and source them carefully (and smartly I should say.... being a bit modest here  ).

BTW: Did a $hit load of small little things on the car since.... I bet you'll laugh you a$$ of if I list all the stuff I did, which I will at some point but too busy at the moment doing it.

Have to pay you a visit in few weeks for some new stuff but need to let my credit card cool off a bit as it's red hot now. 







   

[Brig]

Who's the joker on this forum who waxes his car 6 times per session?  Is it you? 

[Firm]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

This is pretty much my process as well. I don't make a 'job' of doing it, but everytime I get under the vehicle for something (usually oil changes) I bring my aerosol cans and do a thorough look for any spots that are dry. I also do the 'water impact' areas like the wheel arches everytime I wash the vehicle....Like you, I use the 'black can' stuff for the more visible areas like the seems between the body. 

[Firm]

BW - those rocker/cab corner repairs look excellent, and the pebbled rocker guard is how those should've been done from the factory if Ford cared about doing things properly. Looks like it'll hold up for many years.

For the record though, it does make 'blending' the fresh body work a lot easier. Nobody is going to see an imperfect seem or other imperfection if it's covered in that stuff. So the body guy saves a bunch of time not having to fuss every detail one something trivial like a rocker panel. 

[Firm]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

Lol, I thought I was OCD about my cars, and I maintain that I still am, but then I met you... 

My service manager wanted to take off your "friends and family" discount for his pain and suffering   

LOL.... If he felt that way remind him to send me a "thank you card" for giving him all the P/Ns validated and ready to go in a spreadsheet, kept him from ordering the wrong parts or unnecessary and expensive parts which you would have to return after all or be stuck with them.... 

I'll give it to you - I'm anal when it comes to the integrity, cleanness, maintenance of my cars and hell yeah, I do my homework before going into a shop... OCD?... yeah, maybe, I give you a wildcard to tease me about that ...

Damn, you should like customers like me as it's a stream generator for the shop plus, if I could just bring my parts in, there would be no work at all for the service advisor.... Nil, nada, zilch.
I typically know exactly what parts I want to put in my car and chose and source them carefully (and smartly I should say.... being a bit modest here  ).

BTW: Did a $hit load of small little things on the car since.... I bet you'll laugh you a$$ of if I list all the stuff I did, which I will at some point but too busy at the moment doing it.

Have to pay you a visit in few weeks for some new stuff but need to let my credit card cool off a bit as it's red hot now. 

 

As someone who started in career in the shop, and now work on the head-office side of it. Anything 'different' from the norm actually creates headaches for most service managers...95% of customers drop off the car and leave everything to the SM. The SM is used to that, so they're pretty good at sourcing the right parts, from the places where they get the best discounts/service (or perks...depending on the shop). Of course, there are exception if you're dealing with a real oddball car, but mainstream stuff like a 3-series, a good SM could likely have everything ordered themselves, through their sources, in the time it would take them to read through, decipher/cross reference a customer supplied list.

Like many roles, it's repetition that makes people efficient....you throw something different at them and it slows down the chain. 

[TheHire]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

Lol, I thought I was OCD about my cars, and I maintain that I still am, but then I met you... 

My service manager wanted to take off your "friends and family" discount for his pain and suffering   

LOL.... If he felt that way remind him to send me a "thank you card" for giving him all the P/Ns validated and ready to go in a spreadsheet, kept him from ordering the wrong parts or unnecessary and expensive parts which you would have to return after all or be stuck with them.... 

I'll give it to you - I'm anal when it comes to the integrity, cleanness, maintenance of my cars and hell yeah, I do my homework before going into a shop... OCD?... yeah, maybe, I give you a wildcard to tease me about that ...

Damn, you should like customers like me as it's a stream generator for the shop plus, if I could just bring my parts in, there would be no work at all for the service advisor.... Nil, nada, zilch.
I typically know exactly what parts I want to put in my car and chose and source them carefully (and smartly I should say.... being a bit modest here  ).

BTW: Did a $hit load of small little things on the car since.... I bet you'll laugh you a$$ of if I list all the stuff I did, which I will at some point but too busy at the moment doing it.

Have to pay you a visit in few weeks for some new stuff but need to let my credit card cool off a bit as it's red hot now. 
 

Just a couple of things to dissect here, and all with respect and coming from a friend, because you're a great dude, and I know you're just mostly just joking around.

You wanted a few basic things done - fluids, brakes, filters, basic things on an E90 BMW, a car we see at least ten of in any given week. You also sourced a few of the parts (like the A/C compressor) yourself to ensure you're paying bottom dollar and again, absolutely zero issues with that. Your goal, like any smart consumer, is to ensure you're paying rock bottom dollar. I'm also happy to give you, just like all the others from here that have come by to support the business and patronize the shop, the friends/family discount on the labor rate.

Obviously, the goal of any business is to make money, and I'm happy to give discounts on labor rate as well as parts, but doing the work obviously costs us something. We do take pride in the fact that we have minimal returns and a near-zero "wrong part ordered" rate. If we do, for the most part our suppliers will happily take something back, because we order enough volume from them that it's good.

My "pain and suffering" joke was because my SM was jokingly sharing about the 67 e-mails back and forth (thanks Gmail, for putting that number right beside the thread) ensuring that the fluids and filters would be up to spec for the 328i, which, again, is a car we deal with literally daily. 

But, please don't take offence to us not really preferring any client to bring their own parts in. When you're paying rock bottom on labour, and bringing your own part, you're digging in pretty heavy on the profit margin. Factor in the SM's time to coordinate back and forth, which for sure is a part of his job, and it ends up being a job that's not profitable.

Again, I'm only kidding around with you because we have varying levels of pickiness with customers, and being in the customer service business, we're happy to deal with each one of them.

I still maintain that the non-turbocharged E90 remains one of the most fun cars you can have under $5,000 right now, and maybe even the $10,000 mark. Brought the shop 335i home a couple of times in the past week or two and am still impressed with the driving dynamics of it, like I was with yours.

[Triple Bob]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

Lol, I thought I was OCD about my cars, and I maintain that I still am, but then I met you... 

My service manager wanted to take off your "friends and family" discount for his pain and suffering   

LOL.... If he felt that way remind him to send me a "thank you card" for giving him all the P/Ns validated and ready to go in a spreadsheet, kept him from ordering the wrong parts or unnecessary and expensive parts which you would have to return after all or be stuck with them.... 

I'll give it to you - I'm anal when it comes to the integrity, cleanness, maintenance of my cars and hell yeah, I do my homework before going into a shop... OCD?... yeah, maybe, I give you a wildcard to tease me about that ...

Damn, you should like customers like me as it's a stream generator for the shop plus, if I could just bring my parts in, there would be no work at all for the service advisor.... Nil, nada, zilch.
I typically know exactly what parts I want to put in my car and chose and source them carefully (and smartly I should say.... being a bit modest here  ).

BTW: Did a $hit load of small little things on the car since.... I bet you'll laugh you a$$ of if I list all the stuff I did, which I will at some point but too busy at the moment doing it.

Have to pay you a visit in few weeks for some new stuff but need to let my credit card cool off a bit as it's red hot now. 
 

Just a couple of things to dissect here, and all with respect and coming from a friend, because you're a great dude, and I know you're just mostly just joking around.

You wanted a few basic things done - fluids, brakes, filters, basic things on an E90 BMW, a car we see at least ten of in any given week. You also sourced a few of the parts (like the A/C compressor) yourself to ensure you're paying bottom dollar and again, absolutely zero issues with that. Your goal, like any smart consumer, is to ensure you're paying rock bottom dollar. I'm also happy to give you, just like all the others from here that have come by to support the business and patronize the shop, the friends/family discount on the labor rate.

Obviously, the goal of any business is to make money, and I'm happy to give discounts on labor rate as well as parts, but doing the work obviously costs us something. We do take pride in the fact that we have minimal returns and a near-zero "wrong part ordered" rate. If we do, for the most part our suppliers will happily take something back, because we order enough volume from them that it's good.

My "pain and suffering" joke was because my SM was jokingly sharing about the 67 e-mails back and forth (thanks Gmail, for putting that number right beside the thread) ensuring that the fluids and filters would be up to spec for the 328i, which, again, is a car we deal with literally daily. 

But, please don't take offence to us not really preferring any client to bring their own parts in. When you're paying rock bottom on labour, and bringing your own part, you're digging in pretty heavy on the profit margin. Factor in the SM's time to coordinate back and forth, which for sure is a part of his job, and it ends up being a job that's not profitable.

Again, I'm only kidding around with you because we have varying levels of pickiness with customers, and being in the customer service business, we're happy to deal with each one of them.

I still maintain that the non-turbocharged E90 remains one of the most fun cars you can have under $5,000 right now, and maybe even the $10,000 mark. Brought the shop 335i home a couple of times in the past week or two and am still impressed with the driving dynamics of it, like I was with yours.

You're more generous than I.

If I owned a shop and someone brought in all their own parts and fluids and expected a discount on labour I'd tell them where to go. You don't have to reply. 

[ChaosphereIX]

Yes I have had shops tell me they do not want to work on my car if I bring in my own parts, because they cannot warranty them nor do they make much money at all on the labour...I understand that.

Well if I was going to a shop that was going to do the work at a discounted rate, as a favour to me...I would want to make things as easy and painless as possible. 

If I was in the area I would make the trip in, if just for that nice rust proofing... 

[tortoise]

I tend to bring in my own parts where I'm picky (i.e pads & rotors) or there's a good chance I can save some money.  But I've been going to the same shop for fifteen years and they know I'm not bringing in junk.

I did have to go to a different shop because my guys couldn't fit me in. They don't tend to let people bring in their parts, but made an exception with the clause that if my parts didn't fit I'd have to pay the labour rates while the car was stuck on the hoist. Seemed reasonable to me

[rrocket]

This is a problem repair places have created on their own IMO..by over pricing their parts. If I can get all the parts I need from the service center within $100 of what I could get them on my own, I'll go with the service center parts. If not..too bad. I think making $100 doing the exact same thing I could do (clicking online or calling parts depot) is more than fair. There's no reason you need to mark up parts $100+ on my back. Also, I'm not rich.

What I DO need the service center for is something I CAN'T do on my own. And that's their skill in servicing and repairing cars not their "skill" in parts ordering...which I can do myself without getting hosed on price.

This happened recently with the water pump for my Porsche. When I called the Porsche Indy for a water pump part quote, it was double what I could get my own for. And the one I ordered was lifetime warranty.

Why would anyone pay more than double when they don't have to? I know I wouldn't...and I won't.

[JohnnyMac]

I do mind paying for quality work, quality parts, and top notch customer service.  The reality is every shop needs to make a profit, even when doing work for friends and relatives.  Hires shop is the type that only puts the best parts on vehicles they work on, so I would trust what they suggest.  They also likely can buy parts cheaper than us because of the volume and relationships they have.  If they charge a small premium (say 15% mark up over what we could pay ourselves) I think that's more than fair.

To me it's like going to a friend's restaurant, taking your own steaks, and expecting just to pay the bare minimum of cost to cook the meal.

[rrocket]

.  They also likely can buy parts cheaper than us because of the volume and relationships they have. 

LOL

I'm reasonably sure he's not doing part volume like RockAuto.

[Firm]

This is a problem repair places have created on their own IMO..by over pricing their parts. If I can get all the parts I need from the service center within $100 of what I could get them on my own, I'll go with the service center parts. If not..too bad. I think making $100 doing the exact same thing I could do (clicking online or calling parts depot) is more than fair. There's no reason you need to mark up parts $100+ on my back. Also, I'm not rich.

What I DO need the service center for is something I CAN'T do on my own. And that's their skill in servicing and repairing cars not their "skill" in parts ordering...which I can do myself without getting hosed on price.

This happened recently with the water pump for my Porsche. When I called the Porsche Indy for a water pump part quote, it was double what I could get my own for. And the one I ordered was lifetime warranty.

Why would anyone pay more than double when they don't have to? I know I wouldn't...and I won't.

 

If I am buying parts through a shop, then I expect to pay retail on the parts - or within 10-15%. If there's more than a 15% gap between the retail price I can buy the part for, as a random shopper, and the price the shop is charging, I'll go elsewhere...Or source the part myself. Shops buy parts pretty good, parts suppliers provide their accounts with signficant discounts off 'list', usually based on the amount of volume that particular shop does with them. Most shops are buying parts way better than the retail+shipping that you'd pay on RockAuto for example. They'll also usually have rebate/reward programs with the shops which can be fairly lucrative in themselves. Knowing this, there's no reason a shop should be charging way over retail on a part, outside of just greed.

I'll also say that those shops who do gouge and charge huge markup on parts will eventually lose their customers. It takes time for customers to catch on, but most do eventually...In the old days a customer would have to call around to the jobbers and get quotes to figure out what a part should cost, now it's nothing more than a 30 second google search.

The above is also why most shop invoices do not show the part #'s anymore. It used to be standard for shops to include the part #s on their service invoice, now it's a rarity. 

[TheHire]

.  They also likely can buy parts cheaper than us because of the volume and relationships they have. 

LOL

I'm reasonably sure he's not doing part volume like RockAuto.

Absolutely - we can't touch stuff like RockAuto, but I will not charge an insane markup for the sake of making money. Charge a reasonable amount today, and the customer will be back. If I charged an extra $200 today, that $200 gravy could cost me a customer for life, and that's not worth it.

Many of my good clients and friends, I'm happy to charge my cost on the part because I'll make a couple bucks in labour, and I consider my friends my "brand ambassadors". I take care of them in hopes that word of mouth will bring me other customers.

Of course, less than 10% of customers are like Ron (and myself, and CarCrazy), and see value in doing the research. We have tons of enthusiasts as customers, but enthusiasts who have the time to source their own stuff, wait a few days for shipping, etc. are a rare breed. That said, there are disadvantages to sourcing your own stuff and saving money, too.

My supplier may be a few bucks more, but it'll 100% be here the same day and I can have a car off the hoist in the promised amount of time.

If the customer brings his/her own parts, I can't warranty them, and if they end up being defective, it's up to that customer to fight the battle with their vendor and figure it out. The vendor will, the majority of the time, say that it's the installer's negligence and tell you to pound sand.

When we first got the E39 M5 last year, I didn't have the shop yet. I ordered a couple of small things off RockAuto. One part worth $300 was defective and never worked. They wouldn't accept the return, and I was SOL. Just things to keep in mind.

[rrocket]

.  They also likely can buy parts cheaper than us because of the volume and relationships they have. 

LOL

I'm reasonably sure he's not doing part volume like RockAuto.

Absolutely - we can't touch stuff like RockAuto, but I will not charge an insane markup for the sake of making money. Charge a reasonable amount today, and the customer will be back. If I charged an extra $200 today, that $200 gravy could cost me a customer for life, and that's not worth it.

Many of my good clients and friends, I'm happy to charge my cost on the part because I'll make a couple bucks in labour, and I consider my friends my "brand ambassadors". I take care of them in hopes that word of mouth will bring me other customers.

Of course, less than 10% of customers are like Ron (and myself, and CarCrazy), and see value in doing the research. We have tons of enthusiasts as customers, but enthusiasts who have the time to source their own stuff, wait a few days for shipping, etc. are a rare breed. That said, there are disadvantages to sourcing your own stuff and saving money, too.

My supplier may be a few bucks more, but it'll 100% be here the same day and I can have a car off the hoist in the promised amount of time.

If the customer brings his/her own parts, I can't warranty them, and if they end up being defective, it's up to that customer to fight the battle with their vendor and figure it out. The vendor will, the majority of the time, say that it's the installer's negligence and tell you to pound sand.

When we first got the E39 M5 last year, I didn't have the shop yet. I ordered a couple of small things off RockAuto. One part worth $300 was defective and never worked. They wouldn't accept the return, and I was SOL. Just things to keep in mind.

The comment wasn't directly about YOUR business practices specifically, which I'm sure is run properly. But the auto service industry in general which isn't great. And the bad reputation/distrust was self created by bad shops for shabby work and over charging for parts.

I mean...I have no doubt you have stories of you guys fixing botched jobs from other shops.