Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[HeliDriver]

^^ Link works for me. It was for a vehicle pre-heater. Webasto makes them, too: https://www.webasto-comfort.com/int/heating/car-parking-heater/fuel-operated-heating/

I've always been intrigued by these, but they're really spendy.

[TheHire]

^^ Link works for me. It was for a vehicle pre-heater. Webasto makes them, too: https://www.webasto-comfort.com/int/heating/car-parking-heater/fuel-operated-heating/

I've always been intrigued by these, but they're really spendy.

I wonder if adding such a device to a lease would botch the warranty / lease terms...

I don't think it's a huge issue for the Yukon since it has remote start and I've also checked off the block heater accessory, but yeah, these are definitely fascinating.

[PJungnitsch]

Wow, I remember something like that in our old air cooled VW.

I got very fond of a cheap plug in electric heater when I lived up north, that together with a block heater was great. Put it all on a timer to kick in a few hours before I drove to work

[Ex-airbalancer]

Never been on 144 ,
In the winter it would be pretty empty 

[vreniS]

I helped my dad to change wheels our old ones had to be removed

[UnknownJinX]

Had a wheel alignment done on my friend's Mazda6. The front toes are a bit out of whack but it's fine otherwise.

I initially didn't want to do it, but let's just say that I have been driving this car a little hard and my conscience wouldn't let me rest if I don't check the alignment on it.

[TheHire]

Put the new winter tires on the 328d wagon. Michelin has been trying to get us to review the new X-Ice Snow, so this was a great chance to put them through the ringer.

Snowfall tomorrow!

[rrocket]

Put the new winter tires on the 328d wagon. Michelin has been trying to get us to review the new X-Ice Snow, so this was a great chance to put them through the ringer.

Snowfall tomorrow!

I'm an X-Ice slappy...so these (from the testing I've seen) should be unstoppable with your AWD

[TheHire]

Put the new winter tires on the 328d wagon. Michelin has been trying to get us to review the new X-Ice Snow, so this was a great chance to put them through the ringer.

Snowfall tomorrow!

I'm an X-Ice slappy...so these (from the testing I've seen) should be unstoppable with your AWD

I really hope so. I've had decent luck with the General Altimax on the Lexus as well as the 285-45r22 Blizzak DMV2 that I run on my Yukon (they're currently waiting for Yukon 2).

I was actually also surprised by the Sailun Ice Blazer if you're looking for a pure value tire, too.

[valuator]

Put the new winter tires on the 328d wagon. Michelin has been trying to get us to review the new X-Ice Snow, so this was a great chance to put them through the ringer.

Snowfall tomorrow!

I bought a set of these for the Subaru this year.  Replaced either xi2 or xi3, can't remember (still sold that set for $250 on kijiji).  Anyway, we've gotten less snow this year than I can ever remember, so not exactly putting them through their paces, but at least on dry pavement we're very happy.

[blur911]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

[Firm]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery. 

[spanishred637]

Just changed my front pads.

[Great_Big_Abyss]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

They're not good for Deep Cycle batteries, either.  You don't really want to discharge a deep cycle down past 50%. 

[Railton]

Took Mrs. Railton Infiniti into the dealer to look at a loud noise coming from the front fan area.
They ended up replacing g the whole twin electric fan assembly including shroud. Glad I wasn’t paying for that!
Railton

[PJungnitsch]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

Those cheap load testers are useful things to have kicking around to see if there is any guts left

[Firm]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

Those cheap load testers are useful things to have kicking around to see if there is any guts left

Yeah, they are. I have one here and it's come in handy a couple times. Trans Am has a little lamp with a slider switch in the trunk area....at least once a year I accidentally leave it on, or knock it into the on position with something, and totally drain the battery. I usually test it before putting it back in service to make sure it's still good, so far it's held up (just a basic MotoMaster unit) but don't know how many more complete drain cycles it's got left, lol.

[rrocket]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

Those cheap load testers are useful things to have kicking around to see if there is any guts left

Yeah, they are. I have one here and it's come in handy a couple times. Trans Am has a little lamp with a slider switch in the trunk area....at least once a year I accidentally leave it on, or knock it into the on position with something, and totally drain the battery. I usually test it before putting it back in service to make sure it's still good, so far it's held up (just a basic MotoMaster unit) but don't know how many more complete drain cycles it's got left, lol.

I always think I should have one of those in my tool box.

But I'd use it so infrequently...I've just never bought one.

[Firm]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

Those cheap load testers are useful things to have kicking around to see if there is any guts left

Yeah, they are. I have one here and it's come in handy a couple times. Trans Am has a little lamp with a slider switch in the trunk area....at least once a year I accidentally leave it on, or knock it into the on position with something, and totally drain the battery. I usually test it before putting it back in service to make sure it's still good, so far it's held up (just a basic MotoMaster unit) but don't know how many more complete drain cycles it's got left, lol.

I always think I should have one of those in my tool box.

But I'd use it so infrequently...I've just never bought one.

I probably wouldn't pay for one, I have a lot of weird battery related stuff from when I was take care of that category at CT.

[PJungnitsch]

On sale they are not too badly priced:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/100a-battery-load-tester/product/PA0008494031

Can save a lot of dicking around