Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[OliverD]

Oops, missed that post. Not bad at all.

[BWII]

Noticed dim headlights this AM.  Huh, bummer...first burned out light ever on the car (other than the one license plate light which refuses to remain on).  Looks like it's at least an easy one to get at. 

So, question - should I just stick with factory replacement parts?  Replace both low beam lights regardless of the fact one still works?  Get those Silverstar lights?  Is it worth the expense to go big or go home?  They are a projector style...not sure a better light would mean a better light (yes it would) - but it probably would mean a lot more flashes of "TURN YOUR BRIGHTS OFF!!" and I hate those cars that have matching low & high beams...can't tell if they've turned them up or down, just see a little flicker.

[Fobroader]

If its got projectors, I would look into some LEDs. If you are too cheap, some Sliverstars are a great upgrade.

[BWII]

I might be too cheap.      The low beams do kinda suck (the Sonic has amazing lights for a cheapass little car) so maybe I should consider blinding oncoming drivers...not like it's all year, just winter in the AM for the most part.    Can't hurt to see better.  Not getting any younger.

[Seafoam]

I always found the Silverstars burn out quicker and are much more pricey than the regular bulbs.I 'm cheap too i'd just get  a regular bulb.
The one on the other side will burn out next buy 2.

[Bubba]

I always found the Silverstars burn out quicker and are much more pricey than the regular bulbs.I 'm cheap too i'd just get  a regular bulb.
The one on the other side will burn out next buy 2.

Buy two regular bulbs.

[Firm]

Either buy two regular bulbs, or upgrade to LED. LEDs are not much more than Silverstars, yet are much better both in output and life.

[BWII]

I bought one reg bulb from the dealer. $38.10 taxes in.  Things aint cheap!  They wanted to sell me on the LED bulbs...only $150 + tax!  You install! Sold a bunch, people are impressed.  But are the people coming at them now blinded by the light?

And I'm thinking I can probably get those cheaper online if I want to go that route.  For now, I just wanted to be able to see the road so 1 bulb it was.  The other side looks like a major PITA to get to.  This one took less than 5 minutes, passenger side I can only imagine will take an hour or more.  Might as well upgrade ALL of them to LEDs at that point. 

Amazon Prime, here I come!!

[Great_Big_Abyss]

So, nothing I've done to my truck, but I came across an interesting website:

http://www.dashboard-light.com/

It measures Long Term Reliability.  Unlike other websites that measure reliability only in the first couple of years of a vehicle's life, Dasboard-Light measures reliability over the life of a vehicle.  Also, they don't take into account any 'small' or minor repairs, but rather focus only on major components like the engine/transmission/drivetrain, that if they fail, will take an older vehicle out of service for good.

Here is the long term reliability data for full-size trucks.  Interesting which one is on top, and by a large margin.  And also, which one is on the bottom (that which has enough data to register, anyway).

http://www.dashboard-light.com/reports/Full-size_Truck.html

Anyway, have a look in the different vehicle segments, and see how your vehicle compares to the competition.

[EV Dan]

I bought one reg bulb from the dealer. $38.10 taxes in.  Things aint cheap!  They wanted to sell me on the LED bulbs...only $150 + tax!  You install! Sold a bunch, people are impressed.  But are the people coming at them now blinded by the light?

And I'm thinking I can probably get those cheaper online if I want to go that route.  For now, I just wanted to be able to see the road so 1 bulb it was.  The other side looks like a major PITA to get to.  This one took less than 5 minutes, passenger side I can only imagine will take an hour or more.  Might as well upgrade ALL of them to LEDs at that point. 

Amazon Prime, here I come!!

Well done. At least they didn't charge you 60 bucks labour because "we have to take half the car apart" Yep, that's from my collection of things overheard at dealerships. Here's another one. I find a local price of $9.50 for some OEM fluid. Call another dealer to inquire about the same thing and his quote is, literally: "it's gonna be like 20 bucks" 

Have you considered using more powerful halogen bulbs, like 80W or 100W instead of 55W standard? I just want to know if ppl do it...

[BWII]

So, nothing I've done to my truck, but I came across an interesting website:

http://www.dashboard-light.com/

It measures Long Term Reliability.  Unlike other websites that measure reliability only in the first couple of years of a vehicle's life, Dasboard-Light measures reliability over the life of a vehicle.  Also, they don't take into account any 'small' or minor repairs, but rather focus only on major components like the engine/transmission/drivetrain, that if they fail, will take an older vehicle out of service for good.

Here is the long term reliability data for full-size trucks.  Interesting which one is on top, and by a large margin.  And also, which one is on the bottom (that which has enough data to register, anyway).

http://www.dashboard-light.com/reports/Full-size_Truck.html

Anyway, have a look in the different vehicle segments, and see how your vehicle compares to the competition.

Is it a fair comparison though when Toyota only sells 96 trucks per year vs Ford selling 41 million?  Not a lot can go wrong if you don't sell much of something.  Could also be lots of work crews who abuse the shat out of the cheapass rental versions?  Stats are for statisticians...and who can skewer them to their purposes the best.  Bet the owner of the sight drives a Tundra, and hates Fords.

And bah...no major repairs on any Ford I've ever owned. 

Knocks on wood.

I bought one reg bulb from the dealer. $38.10 taxes in.  Things aint cheap!  They wanted to sell me on the LED bulbs...only $150 + tax!  You install! Sold a bunch, people are impressed.  But are the people coming at them now blinded by the light?

And I'm thinking I can probably get those cheaper online if I want to go that route.  For now, I just wanted to be able to see the road so 1 bulb it was.  The other side looks like a major PITA to get to.  This one took less than 5 minutes, passenger side I can only imagine will take an hour or more.  Might as well upgrade ALL of them to LEDs at that point. 

Amazon Prime, here I come!!

Well done. At least they didn't charge you 60 bucks labour because "we have to take half the car apart" Yep, that's from my collection of things overheard at dealerships. Here's another one. I find a local price of $9.50 for some OEM fluid. Call another dealer to inquire about the same thing and his quote is, literally: "it's gonna be like 20 bucks" 

Have you considered using more powerful halogen bulbs, like 80W or 100W instead of 55W standard? I just want to know if ppl do it...

I did not.  I just wanted lights.  Could be another 9 years before I need another one.  Checked with my friend...coulda got a replacement from him for $13 (might've only been worth $13 then too, won't know now)  I can see how it could be $60 in some cases, the passenger side is going to require some dismantling of the overflow tank, fender brace...lots of little shi# in the way.  Could take an hour or more.  Hope I don't need to find out anytime soon.

[draghon]

Not sure on your car but often times it is easier to access the bulbs from below. Turn your wheels all the way to one side and then remove a couple of clips on the fender liner to change the bulb.

[Great_Big_Abyss]

So, nothing I've done to my truck, but I came across an interesting website:

http://www.dashboard-light.com/

It measures Long Term Reliability.  Unlike other websites that measure reliability only in the first couple of years of a vehicle's life, Dasboard-Light measures reliability over the life of a vehicle.  Also, they don't take into account any 'small' or minor repairs, but rather focus only on major components like the engine/transmission/drivetrain, that if they fail, will take an older vehicle out of service for good.

Here is the long term reliability data for full-size trucks.  Interesting which one is on top, and by a large margin.  And also, which one is on the bottom (that which has enough data to register, anyway).

http://www.dashboard-light.com/reports/Full-size_Truck.html

Anyway, have a look in the different vehicle segments, and see how your vehicle compares to the competition.

Is it a fair comparison though when Toyota only sells 96 trucks per year vs Ford selling 41 million?  Not a lot can go wrong if you don't sell much of something.  Could also be lots of work crews who abuse the shat out of the cheapass rental versions?  Stats are for statisticians...and who can skewer them to their purposes the best.  Bet the owner of the sight drives a Tundra, and hates Fords.

And bah...no major repairs on any Ford I've ever owned. 

Knocks on wood.

You realize the failures are represented as percentages, and therefore the number of vehicles sold is not relevant (except in the case of the Lincoln Blackwood which was sold in too few numbers to have any data whatsever). 

And as far as the work crew argument, to that I would say that just as many GM trucks are used as work trucks, and they seem to hold up far better than the Fords. 

Anyways, hate on the data all you want.  It doesn't take away from the fact that despite all of its shortcomings (fuel economy, lack of technology, etc.) the Tundra's biggest advantage is its longevity. 

[Ex-airbalancer]

Not many Tundras over 200,000 miles
I wonder if that do to climate change and they are all melting away   
https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-study#v=2017

[BWII]

Anyways, hate on the data all you want.  It doesn't take away from the fact that despite all of its shortcomings (fuel economy, lack of technology, etc.) the Tundra's biggest advantage is its longevity.

Data shmata...I live my life 2 fingers crossed at all times. 

[blur911]

Anyways, hate on the data all you want.  It doesn't take away from the fact that despite all of its shortcomings (fuel economy, lack of technology, etc.) the Tundra's biggest advantage is its longevity.

Data shmata...I live my life 2 fingers crossed at all times. 

That's life driving Fords

[PJungnitsch]

Warming up here from the -30's to -17 so did some vehicle work

Replaced the oil filter on the CRV, which fixed that leak. Not sure what the issue was exactly, seemed tight, but maybe not quite tight enough for -30's. Was a Wix XP filter, which has a good rep. Changed it for a Fram Ultra

Trekked out to the Vibe and tried boosting it again, and it fired up right away so could bring it home
Other than the weather warming up some, the only thing I had done was put a can of gas line antifreeze in the tank after it quit.

I'd thought gas line antifreeze was redundant with todays ethanol gasoline, but maybe not:

Q: Isn't using a gas line antifreeze these days ridiculous? All our "oxygenated" gasolines are at least 10 percent alcohol already.
What possible good would adding an additional 12 ounces of alcohol do? I think all the manufacturers and dealers of these products should be exposed for cheating motorists out of good money for a product with no value.

A: Ah, don't you just love a good conspiracy? You have a point that drivers today have little need for gas-line antifreeze additives, but I don't agree that these additives have "no value."
Technically, there is a significant difference between the alcohol in gas line antifreeze/de-icer and the alcohol in our gasoline.
Most fuel line additives are based on isopropyl alcohol -- stay away from any methanol-based de-icers, they can corrode fuel system components -- while our gasoline contains ethyl alcohol.
Isopropyl alcohol will combine with water and remix any phase-separated water/ethanol to accomplish two things: First, it will prevent water from freezing anywhere in the fuel system; and second, it will carry the "mix" through the system into the engine to burn. This prevents the moisture and alcohol from sitting in the bottom of the fuel tank waiting to leave you stranded by the side of the road.
You are correct that the ethanol in our fuel will mix with water and thus function as a gas line de-icer, but any significant percentage of moisture in the gasoline can cause phase separation because the ethanol would rather bond with water than with gas. I see some benefit in adding a single small bottle of isopropyl at the beginning of the cold weather to carry any existing moisture through the system, but continuously adding these products with each tank of fuel can result in too much total alcohol in the gasoline.
http://www.startribune.com/fuel-line-antifreeze-not-all-hype/36707014/

[ArticSteve]

Interesting!

[Ex-airbalancer]

 “result in too much total alcohol “

What BS !
How can there ever be too much Alcohol !

Ooo you mean in the gas tank 

[Triple Bob]

So, nothing I've done to my truck, but I came across an interesting website:

http://www.dashboard-light.com/

It measures Long Term Reliability.  Unlike other websites that measure reliability only in the first couple of years of a vehicle's life, Dasboard-Light measures reliability over the life of a vehicle.  Also, they don't take into account any 'small' or minor repairs, but rather focus only on major components like the engine/transmission/drivetrain, that if they fail, will take an older vehicle out of service for good.

Here is the long term reliability data for full-size trucks.  Interesting which one is on top, and by a large margin.  And also, which one is on the bottom (that which has enough data to register, anyway).

http://www.dashboard-light.com/reports/Full-size_Truck.html

Anyway, have a look in the different vehicle segments, and see how your vehicle compares to the competition.

What happened to 2004-2008 F150's?