Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[rrocket]

No dipstick on the E90, so kinda tough with the extractor. Guess I could try thru the oil filter housing which is on top of the motor?

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Only if it's a straight shot to the oil pan.

Yeah, I have no idea, guess I could Google it, lol!

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I'm guessing not...there would be a pick up...likely with screen blocking you from the filter.

[revalations]

Old Audi left my Daughter and I stranded today. Would not start after sitting 40 ish min in the local grocery store parking lot. Seems the old mechanical Bosch CIS injection was famous for vapor lock. Left it sit in the parking lot for about 3 hours and she fired right up. Audi guru told me to wire up the cold start injector on a switch which I did today, try it out tomorrow.

That Jetronic CIS injection system is a bit complicated. Many Euro cars used it from Benz to Ferrari. Probably not too many "experts" out there left who know these systems.

[HeliDriver]

It was the Yukon’s turn on the weekend: replaced a broken parking brake cable and I sawed a hole in the HVAC housing to install a cabin air filter. Apparently, there was no room to insert a cabin air filter, so GM just blocked off the opening. Someone came up with a filter that folds, which is the only way to squeeze one in there, and made a retrofit kit. I had no idea until I stumbled across it on Rockauto when shopping for the parking brake cable.

And the parking brake thing really pissed me off. I’d actually just taken it to the dealer because I don’t usually do stuff to the Yukon myself: it doesn’t fit in the garage, and I hate crawling in the dirt (no paved driveway here.)

So I take it to the dealer and tell them the parking brake doesn’t work, and that I think the cable snapped. They just charge me a hundred bucks and say “Yep, the cable snapped. We need to order a new left rear cable & pedal assembly.”

Ok, whatever. So how much will it cost to fix? They quote me 600 freaking dollars!!! Are they insane!?!

So I order the two parts they say it needs: $100 on Rockauto. Took me three hours to fix it, but that’s because I was lying on my back in the dirt. On a lift, and if I’d done it once before? It’s maybe an hour job, tops. And the worst part? That $80 pedal assembly was totally fine - didn’t need to be replaced at all. The only problem was the broken left rear cable. 

Oh, and they also charged me $60 to tell me that the leaky pinion seal I told them was leaking is actually leaking. WTF? I haven’t yet, but I’ll be going back to have a word with them.

[tooscoops]

as much as there is a solid chance they just suck... keep in mind that dealers still have to diagnose things themselves. I just had a girl come in Saturday telling me her throttle sensor was broken... "what makes you think that" well, it's what was broken last time, so it should be under warranty since it was only 10 months ago or so.

now our service department was already closed, but she mentioned a low air light for tires... me being nice, I asked for the keys and I would at least settle that for her............. this car was bro-ken... the noises and shakes coming from the back end? my god.

I bring it back around and ask her about those issues... "is that not the throttle?" oh, heck no... that is axle/suspension/brakes.

so we still have to look at vehicles because of those people. plus, if we just fixed the throttle again for a customer like that, then all of a sudden we are on the hook for it because it didn't fix the actual issue.


just speaking for our shop, but if we do a diag on one day, we'll discount the actual work by that diag amount when the work is done (in most cases). also, our cost on parts is more than rock auto. so don't use them as the example! not only do we pay more whether we use FCA/NAPA whatever, but we WILL try to profit, plus make enough on labour to pay the techs and the use of their tools/hoists.

[HeliDriver]

Yeah, I was only slightly annoyed by the parking brake thing. I figured I paid them the 100 bucks to do the diagnostic for me, as I was obviously too lazy to do it myself.

But for a hundred bucks they could have at least got it right. And they were very clear that the $600 to fix it was on top of the $100 I’d already spent. $700 for a busted parking brake cable? That is totally insane for what is a two-hour job, absolute tops. And the only thing broken was a single cable - $12 on Rockauto, so even if it’s double, or triple, the cost at the dealer, $700 for the repair is robbery.

But there is zero excuse for the front diff leak. It’s obvious as hell. I paid them $90 to do an oil change (which they actually did, I hope) and anybody with a pair of eyes would have seen it in 5 seconds while they were under there. I’ve actually had it pointed out before, for free, in just that scenario.

[blur911]

Old Audi left my Daughter and I stranded today. Would not start after sitting 40 ish min in the local grocery store parking lot. Seems the old mechanical Bosch CIS injection was famous for vapor lock. Left it sit in the parking lot for about 3 hours and she fired right up. Audi guru told me to wire up the cold start injector on a switch which I did today, try it out tomorrow.

That Jetronic CIS injection system is a bit complicated. Many Euro cars used it from Benz to Ferrari. Probably not too many "experts" out there left who know these systems.

If it's vapour lock it's likely the check valve in the fuel pump is failing, lets pressure off and it's hard to start, or doesn't.    Next time try turning the key to the on position, leaving it there a few seconds and back to off (cycles the fuel pump), do this about 6 times and try starting.   Of course, your cold start injector wiring will probably do the trick.

Another reason for not restarting when hot could be the crank position sensor, they sometimes fail when hot and work again when cold.  ECU only looks at it when trying to start.    I used to pile  snow on it and wait 2 minutes.

[blur911]

Took me three hours to fix it, but that’s because I was lying on my back in the dirt. On a lift, and if I’d done it once before? It’s maybe an hour job, tops.

I always throw down a sheet of plywood or a large piece of cardboard if I have to work outside.  Helps a bit.

[HeliDriver]

Took me three hours to fix it, but that’s because I was lying on my back in the dirt. On a lift, and if I’d done it once before? It’s maybe an hour job, tops.

I always throw down a sheet of plywood or a large piece of cardboard if I have to work outside.  Helps a bit.

Yes, I’m exaggerating for effect.  I had a scrap of blue foam and a 4’-wide sheet of plywood. I still managed to get dirty though. 

[ChaosphereIX]

Fixed the Saab...again.

Wife ran over the block heater cord which came out of the engine bay somehow, and it utterly destroyed intake piping. That is why I had no boost!

All is fixed, and block heater cable is away for good. Oil change and spark plugs, and suspension, thank the gods, checks out after she hit 2 (!!!) full height curbs with the car. The side skirt and front lip damage caused by the curbs has been not-very-cosmetically fixed so it they dont fall off.

It is an uphill battle.

[tooscoops]

Yeah, I was only slightly annoyed by the parking brake thing. I figured I paid them the 100 bucks to do the diagnostic for me, as I was obviously too lazy to do it myself.

But for a hundred bucks they could have at least got it right. And they were very clear that the $600 to fix it was on top of the $100 I’d already spent. $700 for a busted parking brake cable? That is totally insane for what is a two-hour job, absolute tops. And the only thing broken was a single cable - $12 on Rockauto, so even if it’s double, or triple, the cost at the dealer, $700 for the repair is robbery.

But there is zero excuse for the front diff leak. It’s obvious as hell. I paid them $90 to do an oil change (which they actually did, I hope) and anybody with a pair of eyes would have seen it in 5 seconds while they were under there. I’ve actually had it pointed out before, for free, in just that scenario.

yeah, and don't let me rain on our rants in here! I shouldn't have even said anything! heh...

I totally get it. I see it happen everyday... I just always feel bad, because I know the techs suggesting the work, and they are great people, but don't really seem to care about saving the customer any money... I guess why should they?

there is one of my rants lately though... all shops now it would seem, indie or branded, seem to just get replace happy... why just do this sensor, when you can replace ____ and maybe clean it up even more? why do just the line, when you can do the assembly? I guess there is the chance they are more familiar and know if one part goes, the other will follow... but still.

[HeliDriver]

^^ No, it’s ok. This isn’t even the rant thread. 

I’m mostly surprised because this dealer has been great over the 12 years I’ve been dealing with them. In the past, I’ve even had to beg them to take my money! I once asked them to flush the brake fluid and the service advisor called me an hour later to ask if I really wanted it done. He said it was a “lifetime” fluid and said it didn’t need to be changed. I thanked him for watching out for me and said to do it anyway. 

I’m not going to go in there angry, I just want a reasonable explanation. It’s so ridiculous that it almost seems like it must be a mistake. If not, and it’s a new policy or new techs or something, then I’ll just go elsewhere in future.

[Blueprint]

After 7 months and 4,795 km, I finally put gas in the e-tron. It was down to 3 bars (about 1/3rd of a tank) and with the cold season beginning the ICE will fire up more often. 31.437 litres of premium. That's 0.67 l/100km   

[tortoise]

That's incredible! Based on that do you think you could have gone with a full electric car?

[johngenx]

No dipstick on the E90, so kinda tough with the extractor. Guess I could try thru the oil filter housing which is on top of the motor?

Oh, that blows, yeah.  I don't get what's so wrong with old fashioned dipsticks?

[Firm]

After 7 months and 4,795 km, I finally put gas in the e-tron. It was down to 3 bars (about 1/3rd of a tank) and with the cold season beginning the ICE will fire up more often. 31.437 litres of premium. That's 0.67 l/100km   

Damn, that's impressive. If I were you I'd put some fuel stabilizer in that tank...fuel does start to turn after as little as a few months.

[Blueprint]

That's incredible! Based on that do you think you could have gone with a full electric car?

Heading back to the Dieselgate days (I placed a deposit on the e-tron in March 2017), an eGolf might have worked but would not have gotten me to Ottawa or QC City on one charge. It was still the right choice, enabling me to go anywhere, anytime. In the end all my out-of-town trips were in pressies 

I would pick the same car today, except... A-3 e-tron is cancelled for 2019 

Honda Clarity is a great PHEV but huge in comparison for the urban driving I do. Still, I managed pretty well with the Volvo S90 T8 two weeks ago. More cumbersome in parking garages, but 400 hp and 4.2 l/100km worked rather well...

[Blueprint]

After 7 months and 4,795 km, I finally put gas in the e-tron. It was down to 3 bars (about 1/3rd of a tank) and with the cold season beginning the ICE will fire up more often. 31.437 litres of premium. That's 0.67 l/100km   

Damn, that's impressive. If I were you I'd put some fuel stabilizer in that tank...fuel does start to turn after as little as a few months.

I start it every now and then, but the issue I have so far is rusting brakes with all the e-braking the thing is doing. The wheels are screechy at low speeds now when I'm otherwise silently driving. Next spring I will probably drop it in Sport more often (all systems on) for some Italian tuning. That thing really scoots in "S"! Regen is so strong in Sport that after 20 km on an empty battery I gained 10 km of range!!

[BWII]

Got a quote to fix the little bit of rust bubbles that are starting to show on the car...$1400.     Uhm...nope.  If it gets bad, maybe I'll just sand it out, glass it, and plasti-dip my ride. It's in a tight spot...like this but nowhere near this ugly yet, just a couple tiny bubbles in the paint and wee little orange spots like a zit through the paint.  But it's always behind the drivers side rear door.  Both my Taurus' did the same thing. Seems to be a Ford weak spot.


It's the tri-colour which apparently makes it a lot worse to fix.

Wonder how long it will take to get that ugly though.

[Great_Big_Abyss]

My co-worker's 2008 Escape has rust in the same spot in the wheel wells. 

Aside from a few repairs here and there, her vehicle has been quite reliable.

[ChaosphereIX]

My FIL's Mercury Sable, then Ford Escape both rusted out from the doors and wheel wells

Fords IMO are almost as bad as Mazda for rust