Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[KD]

In for an oil change, getting Krowned next week.

Save your money. We use thicker stuff than Krown that lasts longer and doesn't drip, specially made for this climate. Come see me. 

Doesn't Krown and RC offer a thicker product that is not supposed to drip, and does it actually work?  I was thinking about having that applied to my vehicles but heard from a couple of friends that it still drips and is not worth the extra money.  Both my vehicles are booked for a RC spray next week and I'm still pondering whether, or not to use the thicker compound.   

[JG20]

Yes, details on this thicker rust proofing stuff please. Need to get our MDX done.

[ChaosphereIX]

I am getting the thinner stuff on the underside of my Jag - just the steel bits like the subframes etc. Rest is alu.

Gonna be a fight with the shop though, as I will be THAT customer who has a bunch of demands: underside only, no door seals, no drilling. Do not wash afterwards except the mandated windshield, and hand wash only no brush. IF you cannot do that I will wash the windshield myself give me a mit and a clean bucket. IF you cant do that, I am leaving.

They screwed up last time.

[ktm525]

What are you chaps going to coat the underside of your cars with when oil is kicked to the dustbin?  Sounds like a fall ritual out east? Out Calgary way the use of salt and whatever that liquid crap they use that keeps the roads "wet" at -15 has increased but there has been no noticeable increase in vehicles rusting. Either manufacturers improvements (excl. MAZDA) have kept pace or the real culprit in oxidation is humidity.

We do pay for the lack of rusting with regular windshield replacements however...

[Firm]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

[ktm525]

The little airholes in the welds is usually where rust begins.

[PJungnitsch]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Makes sense to me. I ended up using Castrol chainsaw grease mostly on my old Mazda pickup. Cheap, sticky, aerosol can, avail at CT

If it will keep an old Mazda from rusting that says a lot. Didn't drip anywhere, kept things greasy for around a year. Not the prettiest stuff, but under the vehicle or inside body panels, who cares?

The one thing is it would not creep much, so I'd spray something lighter initially then this on top

[Seafoam]

In for an oil change, getting Krowned next week.

Save your money. We use thicker stuff than Krown that lasts longer and doesn't drip, specially made for this climate. Come see me. 

What is the brand ? You want it to drip so that you know it is going to get into all the hard to reach areas.

[tortoise]

Gonna be a fight with the shop though, as I will be THAT customer who has a bunch of demands: underside only, no door seals, no drilling.

Last time I was at the Krown on Catherine St. they had a rate for just spraying the underside.

[ChaosphereIX]

Gonna be a fight with the shop though, as I will be THAT customer who has a bunch of demands: underside only, no door seals, no drilling.

Last time I was at the Krown on Catherine St. they had a rate for just spraying the underside.

that is good

[TheHire]

Yes, details on this thicker rust proofing stuff please. Need to get our MDX done.

Apologies for the delay, gents. The name of the stuff escapes me, but one of our techs is an absolute nut job who's more OCD about his own cars than Firm is (in the best way possible). He was begging and pleading with the previous owner to start doing this in previous years and it never got done, so I figured let's try it.

We've already had 20-ish cars done so let's see how it goes. I'll get the name for y'all tomorrow!

[Dante]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

[dkaz]

What does RC stand for?

[JohnnyMac]

What does RC stand for?

Rust Check, I see that you can now buy the liquid stuff in bulk at Princess Auto, only $50 for a big jug that would likely be enough to do a couple of cars with a spray bottle or if you have a spray gun for your air compressor. 

[Triple Bob]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

[tortoise]

'Cause he's carcrazy man!

[BWII]

Picked it up from the body shop.  Looks like they sprayed some sort of coating on the corners before painting it.  Has that rubbery look - kinda like orange peel but it's not orange peel.




Also had them do the inner lip of the rear wheel openings, figured I'd spray some box liner on it at home later, and they did that too, and painted over it instead (some kind of paint-able "liner" stuff) - so hopefully that'll be good for a while too.  Wasn't rusting yet, but better safe I figured.


Should've had them do the front fenders too...duh.  Cheaper than a new truck that's for sure.

[Dante]

RC is thicker than Krown, which is why I switched. RC actually uses two different formulas, they use a thicker one for underbody areas and a thinner one (red color) for inner panels. The theory is that you want the thinner one in the panels where it can creep into the seems, and the thicker one for the underbody where it needs to resist the elements more without washing away.
The theory makes sense to me, which is why I've been using them. RC does drip...mostly the thinner inner panel stuff gets warms and runs out onto the ground. I park on the street for a day or so to let the worst run out. Then I put cardboard, or plastic or whatever is around on the driveway and park on that for a week or so. After that, it's usually fine.....It'll drip once and awhile afterwards, especially if the weather gets hot, but w/e. I care about my cars more than my driveway, and in the case of my asphalt driveway, a quick re-coat of sealer every couple of years tidies it up.

Same approach/products here.

I had the BMW spayed while at TheHire's shop and then some more at home. Took the wheels off and sprayed some more RC green (thicker stuff) on the suspension bits and hard to reach places towards the center of the car. Then loosened up the wheel arch liners, washed, dried and liberally sprayed the RC red stuff inside the fenders and bottom of the doors through the drain openings. The RC red stuff is very liquid. I sprayed in the front and it ran all the way to the back along the rocker panel. Same thing when I sprayed in the rear it ran all the way to the front.

Still need to do the trunk lid and the hood with the RC red stuff this weekend after I degrease and wash.

I use a third type - can't remember the name but it's a black can from CT (something with Formula 3000 on it) on the surface. This stuff does not drip and only forms a greasy film which sticks on the paint. I will use this on the rear wheel lip, bottom of the doors, some crannies on the inner part of the hood....

I used this stuff for the past few years on the Outlander and it was pretty effective in slowing down the rust progress in few spots where it started to bubble (bottom of the doors, rear fender where it meets the bumper). I spray this stuff locally, on the painted surface/bubbled area and it sticks there. It gets dirty by spring but in wipes out easily and I re-apply in the fall.

Why would you pay to have it sprayed, and then do significantly more at home?

#1 - I spot-sprayed where the shop did not or could not reach (complement not re-do). I believe they stay away from the wheels in order not to spray on the brakes. They also spray from under the car so the top of the suspension bits does not get sprayed. They don't spray the suspension tower or the spring seats either... things like that. When you take the wheel off and spray from the can with the little nozzle you have more reach and precision. They don't brush off surface rust on suspension ends either before spraying.... Things like that.
#2 - Shop did not spray inner panels. My request was undercarriage only and this is what they did and I paid for.
#3 - I did open up the wheel arch liners to clean and assess condition of the sheet metal everywhere I could anyway to look for rust (it's a new to me 10+ years old used car) so I sprayed at the same time so no big deal

I did not spray over what they sprayed... I guess you get my drift here.

[Dante]

'Cause he's carcrazy man!

 

[HeliDriver]

Picked it up from the body shop.  Looks like they sprayed some sort of coating on the corners before painting it.  Has that rubbery look - kinda like orange peel but it's not orange peel.

Also had them do the inner lip of the rear wheel openings, figured I'd spray some box liner on it at home later, and they did that too, and painted over it instead (some kind of paint-able "liner" stuff) - so hopefully that'll be good for a while too.  Wasn't rusting yet, but better safe I figured.

Should've had them do the front fenders too...duh.  Cheaper than a new truck that's for sure.

Looks functional. I like it.

Mind if I ask how much it cost? And are you/they pretty confident this will last more than a few years without the rust coming back?