Topic: What did you do to your car today?

[rrocket]

On sale they are not too badly priced:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/100a-battery-load-tester/product/PA0008494031

Can save a lot of dicking around

Agreed.

I just haven't had to do a lot of dicking around with batteries....as I think the case is for most people.  IMO of course.

[TheHire]

Got caught in some bad flurries on the highway this week so decided to take it through a car wash to get a couple of layers off dirt of it. Now using 0.01L/100 less fuel. Amazing.

The wagon is also filthy after a couple of particularly grimy days. I should go run it through the wash this weekend... man I hate white cars.

White is not 1/2 as bad as black for keeping clean in the winter

Black and white at the same time.

I thought this was in storage for winter?

[Triple Bob]

Sold it. New vehicle incoming...

[Ex-airbalancer]

Sold it. New vehicle incoming...

EV?

[Seafoam]

or Truck ?

[DriverJeff]

Took Mrs. Railton Infiniti into the dealer to look at a loud noise coming from the front fan area.
They ended up replacing g the whole twin electric fan assembly including shroud. Glad I wasn’t paying for that!
Railton

it's an omen.  Time to get rid of that old, unreliable thing and get a good, solid European car now!

[ChaosphereIX]

Put new wipers on it, tomorrow fresh air filters and cabin filter, along with block heater cable relocation

[Railton]

Took Mrs. Railton Infiniti into the dealer to look at a loud noise coming from the front fan area.
They ended up replacing g the whole twin electric fan assembly including shroud. Glad I wasn’t paying for that!
Railton

it's an omen.  Time to get rid of that old, unreliable thing and get a good, solid European car now!

Yer a pistol!
Railton

[2JDM]

Took a quick peek under the hood today after a car wash. Looks like I have an oil filter housing leak.

So oil pan and oil filter housing are leaking / seeping. Nice. Typical BMW. Time to trade it?

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Took my car to the mechanic to get my oil filter housing fixed today. I got a call and he said its actually not leaking, it was just moist/damp dirt around the gasket area? He cleaned it up and it was bone dry, no oil residue at all. 

He also criticized the belt and tensioner job that a different shop (BMW specialist too) did... 

Anyways, it was a relief but I was somewhat embarrassed. No charge. Thank god for honest mechanics.

I will be keeping an eye on it though...

[Gurgie]

Took a quick peek under the hood today after a car wash. Looks like I have an oil filter housing leak.

So oil pan and oil filter housing are leaking / seeping. Nice. Typical BMW. Time to trade it?

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Took my car to the mechanic to get my oil filter housing fixed today. I got a call and he said its actually not leaking, it was just moist/damp dirt around the gasket area? He cleaned it up and it was bone dry, no oil residue at all. 

He also criticized the belt and tensioner job that a different shop (BMW specialist too) did... 

Anyways, it was a relief but I was somewhat embarrassed. No charge. Thank god for honest mechanics.

I will be keeping an eye on it though...

What was wrong with the belt & tensioner job?

Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk

[2JDM]

Took a quick peek under the hood today after a car wash. Looks like I have an oil filter housing leak.

So oil pan and oil filter housing are leaking / seeping. Nice. Typical BMW. Time to trade it?

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Took my car to the mechanic to get my oil filter housing fixed today. I got a call and he said its actually not leaking, it was just moist/damp dirt around the gasket area? He cleaned it up and it was bone dry, no oil residue at all. 

He also criticized the belt and tensioner job that a different shop (BMW specialist too) did... 

Anyways, it was a relief but I was somewhat embarrassed. No charge. Thank god for honest mechanics.

I will be keeping an eye on it though...

What was wrong with the belt & tensioner job?

Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk

He said the tensioner doesn't seem to be adjusted to his spec or something like that. It was only a quick look, not a through inspection, when we were talking about the filter gasket. I mean hopefully its ok?

[Gurgie]

Took a quick peek under the hood today after a car wash. Looks like I have an oil filter housing leak.

So oil pan and oil filter housing are leaking / seeping. Nice. Typical BMW. Time to trade it?

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Took my car to the mechanic to get my oil filter housing fixed today. I got a call and he said its actually not leaking, it was just moist/damp dirt around the gasket area? He cleaned it up and it was bone dry, no oil residue at all. 

He also criticized the belt and tensioner job that a different shop (BMW specialist too) did... 

Anyways, it was a relief but I was somewhat embarrassed. No charge. Thank god for honest mechanics.

I will be keeping an eye on it though...

What was wrong with the belt & tensioner job?

Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk

He said the tensioner doesn't seem to be adjusted to his spec or something like that. It was only a quick look, not a through inspection, when we were talking about the filter gasket. I mean hopefully its ok?

Hmmm, didn't think the tensioner had an adjustment? I replaced it on Bella's 323i along with the belt & idler pulley & don't remember anyway to adjust the tension.

Sent from my SM-G970W using Tapatalk

[blur911]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

After a day or so of starting the charge cycle, faking it out with a battery in parallel, conditioning cycles, the Ctek always ended up with a red fault light after an hour or so.  This afternoon it at least started not needing to be faked out to start the cycle.  Anyhow, I just walked by it and there is a green fully charged light on.  Will check in the morning to see if it will start.

[Firm]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

After a day or so of starting the charge cycle, faking it out with a battery in parallel, conditioning cycles, the Ctek always ended up with a red fault light after an hour or so.  This afternoon it at least started not needing to be faked out to start the cycle.  Anyhow, I just walked by it and there is a green fully charged light on.  Will check in the morning to see if it will start.

It might be done, worth giving it a shot, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't hold charge anymore.

[blur911]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

After a day or so of starting the charge cycle, faking it out with a battery in parallel, conditioning cycles, the Ctek always ended up with a red fault light after an hour or so.  This afternoon it at least started not needing to be faked out to start the cycle.  Anyhow, I just walked by it and there is a green fully charged light on.  Will check in the morning to see if it will start.

It might be done, worth giving it a shot, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't hold charge anymore.

Gave up on the Kirkland,  won't hold a charge.   No paperwork so no warranty either
I put the battery from the Outback in the truck.  Guess I'll officially take it off the road

[Ex-airbalancer]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

After a day or so of starting the charge cycle, faking it out with a battery in parallel, conditioning cycles, the Ctek always ended up with a red fault light after an hour or so.  This afternoon it at least started not needing to be faked out to start the cycle.  Anyhow, I just walked by it and there is a green fully charged light on.  Will check in the morning to see if it will start.

It might be done, worth giving it a shot, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't hold charge anymore.

Gave up on the Kirkland,  won't hold a charge.   No paperwork so no warranty either
I put the battery from the Outback in the truck.  Guess I'll officially take it off the road

Outback or truck  .

[blur911]

The old-school mastercraft unit will charge it, leave it on long enough to get a few volts in it and then swap over to one of the smart chargers. That, or if you have a running car, hook up the booster cables and let the running car run for ~15 minutes or so. That'll be enough to put a surface charge on the dead battery so the 'smart' charger will kick on when you connect it.

After at least 24 hours on the mastercraft charger with another battery in parallel, it might be starting to take a charge.

Now, should I change to my Ctek and recondition?  Or just regular charge?

Reconditioning, in most cases, uses pulses to try and break-down build up (sulfation) on the plates...It can't hurt. I think most high-end smart chargers (CTEK included) will automatically go into reconditioning whether you set it or not if it detects that the battery needs it.

To answer your question, yeah, I'd probably switch it over to the CTEK at this point.

No guarantees with a battery at this point, it might come back to be serviceable again, it might not. Deep discharges like this are really not good for a starting (non-deep cycle) battery.

After a day or so of starting the charge cycle, faking it out with a battery in parallel, conditioning cycles, the Ctek always ended up with a red fault light after an hour or so.  This afternoon it at least started not needing to be faked out to start the cycle.  Anyhow, I just walked by it and there is a green fully charged light on.  Will check in the morning to see if it will start.

It might be done, worth giving it a shot, but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't hold charge anymore.

Gave up on the Kirkland,  won't hold a charge.   No paperwork so no warranty either
I put the battery from the Outback in the truck.  Guess I'll officially take it off the road

Outback or truck  .

Outback.   Haven't been driving 2 vehicles enough, let alone 3, to keep them all on the road.   
Love the Outback, but rather have the truck on the road, plus Outback was acting up last time I drove it, stalled once, hard to start if left to sit for a day, brakes rusty, shifter sticky, mostly from sitting.

[rrocket]

I know you don't have receipt..but have returned stuff to Costco without receipt.

They had it in their system...though not sure how far back they keep.

[blur911]

I know you don't have receipt..but have returned stuff to Costco without receipt.

They had it in their system...though not sure how far back they keep.

Maybe I'll give them a call tomorrow.   I haven't had a membership in years, but don't know if that matters.

[UnknownJinX]

Got the GM CAI for the Camaro.

Gonna have some fun installing that in a month. Hopefully it doesn't turn into frustration.

I didn't want it initially because I know it doesn't give you that much more power, but I heard it does improve the throttle response and so I decided to try it. The sound, the look, not to mention the tinkeritus also played a part in the decision.