Topic: CD Article: Ford F-series pickup, 2004-2008

[Autos_Editor]

Used Vehicle Review:


A "solid choice for a used truck," the Ford F-150 half-ton pickup, model years 2004 to 2008, has a "decent reputation as far as long-term durability," says Contributing Editor, Chris Chase, "but there are a few things to watch for."

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[ArticSteve]

One common issue in 2004-2006 trucks with the 5.4-litre three-valve V8 is spark plugs that break off in the cylinder head when it comes time to replace the plugs. This has the potential to turn what should be a simple, routine maintenance item into an expensive problem. Worst case scenario is that the cylinder head(s) have to be removed in order to remove the broken plug(s).

And you still recommend this vehicle with this motor (the most common motor in the F150) as a solid used vehicle.   


This is simply preposterous, even for Ford.

Also seen here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LE4g-IvgR4c


General Spark Plug Removal

To remove spark plugs without damage, it is necessary to adhere exactly to this procedure before removal is attempted.

Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down).
CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS EXTREMELY HOT OR COLD SOAKED. THIS INCREASES THE CHANCE THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED.

CAUTION: BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR STEP 2.

Remove the coil-on-plug assemblies and thoroughly blow out the spark plug wells and surrounding valve cover area with compressed air.
Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Apply penetrating oil (AeroKroil or equivalent) and fill the spark plug well just above where the jamb nut hex sits. A minimum period of 5 to 10 minutes of soak time is required. The penetrating oil will wick down to the ground electrode shield in this time. DO NOT WORK the spark plug back and forth at this point.
CAUTION: EXCESSIVE PENETRANT, OR REPEATING THE PROCESS SEVERAL TIMES WITH TOO MUCH FLUID, COULD INTRODUCE ENOUGH LIQUID VOLUME TO HYDRO-LOCK THE ENGINE.

CAUTION: DO NOT USE AIR OR POWER TOOLS FOR PLUG REMOVAL. THE PLUG MUST ONLY BE REMOVED WITH HAND TOOLS.

Slowly turn the spark plug out. Some screeching and high effort may be noticed but, not in every case. The expected removal torque is about 33 lb-ft (45 N-m) but should decrease on the way out. If it is higher, try turning the spark plug back in a half turn, then back out again. If the turning torque still seems high, repeat the back and forth rotation along with some penetrating oil to reduce turning effort.
Separated/Broken Spark Plug Removal

If the plug does come apart even after following the General Spark Plug Removal Procedure, it will break in one of two modes:

Mode 1: The ground electrode shield is left behind as an empty shell (Figure 1).

Mode 2: The porcelain centre and ground electrode shield is left behind and only the upper jamb nut comes out. In this case more soaking is required and long-reach nose pliers should be used to grasp and remove the porcelain centre from the ground electrode shield (Figure 2).

Once there is only an empty ground electrode shield left in the cylinder head, perform the following steps to remove the shield using Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203 (Figure 3).

NOTE: THIS TOOL IS ONLY DESIGNED TO WORK WITH AN EMPTY GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD. IF THE SPARK PLUG CAME APART IN MODE 2, THE PORCELAIN centre MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR TO FOLLOWING THESE STEPS.

The combustion chamber must be protected from contamination during the extraction process by using a modified vacuum cap (382444-S) as a stopper-type plug. This is because the remaining ground electrode shield will be thread-tapped, so the cap is needed to prevent thread chips from falling into the cylinder bore. Cut a vacuum cap to a 3/8" (10 mm) length for each ground electrode shield that needs to be removed.
Install the modified cap with a long drill bit or suitable wire (Figure 4), sized for the internal diameter of the cap. The rubber cap should bottom-out on the electrode strap of the ground electrode shield once installed.

Thread-tap the ground electrode shield using a 9.0 x 1.0 mm "plug" tap (tap profile is about 3-4 reduced diameter threads on the tip end).
Coat the end of the tap with general purpose grease as shown in Figure 5.

Turn the tap about 3 to 4 turns into the ground electrode shield once the tap begins to cut. As the shield is tapped, for every 1/2 turn, the tap should be backed up 1/8 turn to "break chips" and prevent any cut material from coiling-up and laying in the spark plug well. All of the thread chips will embed in the grease pack or drop inside the vacuum cap when following this procedure. A suitably sized tap wrench of about 7-9 inches in handle length will aid in reaching down the well. If not available, use an 8 point socket with a ratchet and drive extension. Keep the shank aligned with the axis of the spark plug bore cavity to prevent possible thread bore damage. Use care not to damage any spark plug threads on the way in.
CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD WITH THE TAP AND WRENCH. THE TAP MAY BREAK IF THIS IS ATTEMPTED.

Carefully back out the tap while maintaining the residual grease coat on the tap which contains some chips. Take care not to touch the sides of the spark plug well bore during removal.
Once the ground electrode shield is tapped, thread Rotunda Special Service Tool 303-1203 into the ground electrode shield to extract it from the spark plug well and encapsulate any remaining chips from falling into the combustion chamber.
NOTE: SEE FIGURE 6 FOR DETAILS OF THE TOOL AS INSTALLED IN THE HEAD.

Install the stepped end of the tool pilot bushing into the spark plug well ensuring it bottoms out.
Screw the centre shank into the ground electrode shield. Do not over tighten the shank, to prevent thread stripping.
Install the nylon washer and jack nut until finger tight.
Turn the jack nut with a socket and 3/8" drive ratchet until the ground electrode is freed from the cavity and withdraw the tool assembly. Several turns of the nut are required. Upon removal, any remaining chips not caught earlier by the tap grease will be captured by the rubber plug sitting at the bottom of the ground electrode shield.
NOTE: ONCE THE SPARK PLUGS HAVE ALL BEEN REMOVED, NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED USING A FILM COATING OF MOTORCRAFT HIGH TEMPERATURE NICKEL ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT (XL-2) ON THE GROUND ELECTRODE SHIELD OF THE NEW SPARK PLUG (FIGURE 7). DO NOT COAT THE ELECTRODE STRAP OR THE PLUG WILL MISFIRE. THE NEW PLUGS SHOULD BE INSTALLED WITH NO LUBRICANT ON THE THREADS AND TORQUED TO SPECIFICATION, 25 LB-FT (34 N-m).

[PJungnitsch]

That is one very odd spark plug design, almost like a diesel injector.

[B2]

One common issue in 2004-2006 trucks with the 5.4-litre three-valve V8 is spark plugs that break off in the cylinder head when it comes time to replace the plugs. This has the potential to turn what should be a simple, routine maintenance item into an expensive problem. Worst case scenario is that the cylinder head(s) have to be removed in order to remove the broken plug(s).

This happened to me when I changed the plugs on my old Nissan Pathfinder.  The plugs sit deep in the cylinder heads on the old 3.0L V6's.  Water got down there and rusted the metal plug casing (the metal, threaded cylinder that surrounds the porcelain part).  The threaded part was deep down in the cylinder head, rusty.  I thought I was doomed and would have to remove the cylinder head.  However, I used a type of bolt puller (can't really the remember the name right now  ) and was able to de-thread the stuck portion of spark plug - without any cylinder head damage.  I was so happy!

[Wolfe]

One common issue in 2004-2006 trucks with the 5.4-litre three-valve V8 is spark plugs that break off in the cylinder head when it comes time to replace the plugs. This has the potential to turn what should be a simple, routine maintenance item into an expensive problem. Worst case scenario is that the cylinder head(s) have to be removed in order to remove the broken plug(s).

And you still recommend this vehicle with this motor (the most common motor in the F150) as a solid used vehicle.   


This is simply preposterous, even for Ford.

And ironically they've also apparently had the opposite problem with spark plugs in the 5.4L V8 where the plugs are blown out of the cylinder head.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/01/ford_truck_engines.html

[Sir Osis of Liver]

Any vehicle with OHC and aluminum heads is subject to striped threads and broken plugs, Ford is certainly not alone. It's just the nature of the design. Long plug service intervals also exacerbates the problem.

[Mozeby]

Any vehicle with OHC and aluminum heads is subject to striped threads and broken plugs, Ford is certainly not alone. It's just the nature of the design. Long plug service intervals also exacerbates the problem.

Bring back all iron engines!! Just kidding, but I don't remember any iron engines having these sorts of problems.  Head gasket and intake manifold gaskets blowning seems like another aluminum head/engine problem too.

[Sir Osis of Liver]

Any vehicle with OHC and aluminum heads is subject to striped threads and broken plugs, Ford is certainly not alone. It's just the nature of the design. Long plug service intervals also exacerbates the problem.

Bring back all iron engines!! Just kidding, but I don't remember any iron engines having these sorts of problems.  Head gasket and intake manifold gaskets blowning seems like another aluminum head/engine problem too.

I'm not particularly partial to aluminum engines. It's a pretty soft material for that kind of duty. But, it was possible to have spark plugs or diesel injectors corrode tight to iron blocks too. Usually though the service intervals were short enough that they never really had enough time to really seize in, and the treads were much harder to strip.


I think most manufacturers are sufficiently hardening the spark plug bores now. I'd still just bring it back to the dealer and let them worry about it.