Topic: KROWN rust proofing: good and bad experience

[Panzer]

BOB, in central Ontario at least, if one takes their car out on the highway or county road it comes home white.

Ah yes, the Canadian free two-tone winter paint job.   

[Seafoam]

Do new cars even need this?

The last Toyota I bought had a 12 year rust/corrosion warranty, so if it gets even slightly corroded, take it back...

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?



That's how the manufacturers get you, most people sell there cars long before the rust warranty has expired. It's the same for the crappy rust proofing they try to sell you ,they are counting on you selling  so you won't have to use the warranty. By the way how many 1990 corolla's are still on the road? Not many why they all rusted out while the drivetrains were still good.Any that are left are still going because they were properly rustproofed.I know this because i had the very same car that i rustchecked
every year, afew years ago i sold to someone else and it is still going strong.My take on it is if you keep the car a long time get it done it makes for a much safer vehicle.

Andrew

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

The early the vehicle gets treated the better the results later on.

Still don't understand this I'm afraid, we use a lot of salt too, but if the car is well made, well maintained, washed regularly and any paint chips touched up, then what's the problem?  Especially with a warranty (from what I remember my Toyota one did not require perforation).
 

[locutusx]

there appears to be a Krown shop in Mississauga, south of Square 1 mall (Cooksville). I think on Wolfedale road or thereabouts? has anyone had their car done there? i don't know the name of the garage/business that's doing it... i just saw a Krown sign as i drove past...

[safristi]

I had my Millenia "Ziebarted" at 2 yeras old when I bought it and had a few days of drips...so far at nearly 6 years NO rusty Spots OR ZITS.....!!!.......


  I'm concerned about the "ALL SUMMER LONG DRIPPING wif KROWN Margarine...have these guys been buttered UP by freebies or other considerations........ ..that's CRAP if it's soooo Meeessssyyyy !!!
 hell the old OIL SPRAY with used sump oil was better than that!!!!!

[yugrus]

I think it is not as bad Saffy. Yeah, it drips for a while, but after I get it Krowned I go to No Frills and take their large carton boxes. So I have a carton layer in the garage for a couple of weeks, but that's about it.

[jonl]

there appears to be a Krown shop in Mississauga, south of Square 1 mall (Cooksville). I think on Wolfedale road or thereabouts? has anyone had their car done there? i don't know the name of the garage/business that's doing it... i just saw a Krown sign as i drove past...

Earlier in this thread, I wrote about having my car done at Rust Check at Wolfdale & Dundas in Mississauga.  This is very close to the location you mention, though of course, it's not Krown.  After following this thread, I am interested in Krown, but as has been said repeatedly, it matters that the shop comes recommended, as they are franchises.  I'd far rather have a good shop doing Rust Check than a poor one doing Krown.

[safristi]

Yurgus after "YOU "get crowned "U" may wanta live inna cardboard BOX fer 2 weeks...NOT ME!!!!

[Seafoam]

Yurgus after "YOU "get crowned "U" may wanta live inna cardboard BOX fer 2 weeks...NOT ME!!!!

Exactly Safristi that's what i do for a few days after i get my car krowned.
I lay old sheets of panelling on my driveway,then drive car on to them keeping my driveway krown free. It's weird but it works.Think of it as a diaper for cars.

Andrew

[ArticSteve]

I had my Millenia "Ziebarted" at 2 yeras old when I bought it and had a few days of drips...so far at nearly 6 years NO rusty Spots OR ZITS.....!!!.......


  I'm concerned about the "ALL SUMMER LONG DRIPPING wif KROWN Margarine...have these guys been buttered UP by freebies or other considerations........ ..that's CRAP if it's soooo Meeessssyyyy !!!
 hell the old OIL SPRAY with used sump oil was better than that!!!!!

I had my Millenia "Ziebarted" at 2 yeras old when I bought it and had a few days of drips...so far at nearly 6 years NO rusty Spots OR ZITS.....!!!.......

wait another 2.  Hope you got a dark colour.

[X-Traction]

I wouldn't bother having it done on a new car until the underbody has lots of surface rust or you get the first signs of rust in the bottoms of the doors.

Wrong.  By then it's much too late. Krown won't retard rust once it's taken hold.  Nothing will other than submerging the car in a vat of oil and leaving it there.

Wrong.  It's never too late.  Coating a car in oil, for rust protection, amounts to the same thing as submerging it, except that you can still use it.  Metal coated with oil cannot rust.  Machinists have known this for quite some time.

I understand this has come to the attention of regulators as a pollution issue, and has been behind the banning of this process in some jurisdictions.

Name them or snowy yourself. 

I said "I understand".  Do the research yourself.

The oil mixture affects rubber.

Apparently virgin rubber used on Volvo.  You need to wipe it off.  I never had any trouble on my S70.

To wipe it off all the rubber on the car would require dismantling the car.  Not going to happen.

I assume this also happens on underbody components like suspension and steering bushings.
 Don't assume 

Assumptions are essential to efficient communication. 

It also acts somewhat as a chassis lube.

Somewhat   It is a major chassis lube.  That among other things sets it aside from the drip less junk like Zeibert.
It's not designed to be easy to remove

Very easy to remove from windows; soap and water.

So you have to wash the inside and outside of each window each time you raise and lower them, then clean the soap off.  Compared to just wiping water off, or not needing to do anything, that doesn't qualify as "very easy".

The stuff makes one "H" of a mess on the under body and in the engine compartment.  Mechanics hate working with the mess that results

It makes no mess at all and mechanics love.  Obviously you don't work underneath cars.

False ASSUMPTION (see above re. "assume").  I have had several mechanics grumble about it.  I have never had a mechanic say they love it.  Your sampling may vary.

Now the closest place with this type of treatment is a Ziebart outlet on the North Shore.

Zeibert not even remotely close to Krown or Rust Check for that matter.  You have no idea what your talking about.

At least I have manners, can spell Ziebart, and know the difference between "your" and "you're".  I was wrong on this: the Rust Check franchise in North Vancouver is not a Ziebart outlet.  To determine that, I had to have some idea of what I was talking about.  Understand?

[ArticSteve]

To determine that, I had to have some idea of what I was talking about.  Understand?

Not in the slightest.  Good rant though. 

[Craig]

Indeed.  Very moving.

[safristi]

Yup a METAMUCIL MOMENT.......is it too late ta KROWN GRANNY!!!?.....

[X-Traction]

To determine that, I had to have some idea of what I was talking about.  Understand?

Not in the slightest.  Good rant though. 

Thanks for helping defuse a potential nasty exchange.

To elaborate on the "when to get it sprayed" matter, we have a 1990 car that qualifies for the phrase "no rust", although if you look hard enough underneath, you can find a few spots of surface rust.  Which would have been better?  For the thing to have been sprayed every year since it was new, at a cost of $1600+, plus the hassle and pollution, or monitor it for when an owner might see rust starting, and start the treatments then?  I think "when to start" depends on the car and where you live, whether you can wash it regularly etc.

One last thing on this subject.  After the treatment, watch your braking because the tires can be slippery just like with new tires.

[Seafoam]

To determine that, I had to have some idea of what I was talking about.  Understand?

Not in the slightest.  Good rant though. 

Thanks for helping defuse a potential nasty exchange.

To elaborate on the "when to get it sprayed" matter, we have a 1990 car that qualifies for the phrase "no rust", although if you look hard enough underneath, you can find a few spots of surface rust.  Which would have been better?  For the thing to have been sprayed every year since it was new, at a cost of $1600+, plus the hassle and pollution, or monitor it for when an owner might see rust starting, and start the treatments then?  I think "when to start" depends on the car and where you live, whether you can wash it regularly etc.

One last thing on this subject.  After the treatment, watch your braking because the tires can be slippery just like with new tires.

You can also look at it this way as well. That 16 year old car if it hasn't been done will need bodywork and a paint job if you really want to keep it.
How much does good bodywork and a good paint job cost? Probably more than that 1600 dollars you spent on undercoating .Also consider other parts like fuel lines,brake lines are treated as well leading to less maintenance on these items .How many 1990 cars are still on the road? Not many because they were not rust protected.

Andrew
 

[X-Traction]

You can also look at it this way as well. That 16 year old car if it hasn't been done will need bodywork and a paint job if you really want to keep it.
How much does good bodywork and a good paint job cost? Probably more than that 1600 dollars you spent on undercoating .Also consider other parts like fuel lines,brake lines are treated as well leading to less maintenance on these items .How many 1990 cars are still on the road? Not many because they were not rust protected.

Andrew

I'm willing to bet you live east of Vancouver.  I have a good idea of how fast rust will progress in our area, and I'm sure our car will never need body work.  If it has virtually none in 16 years, it isn't going to need body work in the next 5.  Nor for any of the hidden stuff. like floors, firewall etc. 

As for the paint, the flat surfaces could use some new clearcoat, but the sides look pretty well like new.  I also know it won't need a paint job in the next 5 years we expect to keep it.  It's quite nice enough for a 1990 car, and won't look like a beater 5 years from now.

I know this might sound unlikely, but a car that had good factory rustproofing and a half-decent paint job, like this 1990 Dodge Spirit, just isn't going to get serious rust around here.  The ones at the wreckers are there because they've been crashed or worn out, not because of rust.  This car still has the original exhaust system.

[barrie1]

You can definitely Thank Your Neighbourhood Weather Man for a lot of the car being in such good repair as well. I wish I could say the same but with all of the Salt we use in Ont there is NO WAy that can ever happen here if the vehicle is Winter driven at all. 

[Seafoam]

You can also look at it this way as well. That 16 year old car if it hasn't been done will need bodywork and a paint job if you really want to keep it.
How much does good bodywork and a good paint job cost? Probably more than that 1600 dollars you spent on undercoating .Also consider other parts like fuel lines,brake lines are treated as well leading to less maintenance on these items .How many 1990 cars are still on the road? Not many because they were not rust protected.

Andrew

I'm willing to bet you live east of Vancouver.  I have a good idea of how fast rust will progress in our area, and I'm sure our car will never need body work.  If it has virtually none in 16 years, it isn't going to need body work in the next 5.  Nor for any of the hidden stuff. like floors, firewall etc. 

As for the paint, the flat surfaces could use some new clearcoat, but the sides look pretty well like new.  I also know it won't need a paint job in the next 5 years we expect to keep it.  It's quite nice enough for a 1990 car, and won't look like a beater 5 years from now.

I know this might sound unlikely, but a car that had good factory rustproofing and a half-decent paint job, like this 1990 Dodge Spirit, just isn't going to get serious rust around here.  The ones at the wreckers are there because they've been crashed or worn out, not because of rust.  This car still has the original exhaust system.

You bet right i live in Nova Scotia. Freeze thaw freeze thaw lots of road salt like Barrie. In your case you probably wont need it. There are not very many dodge spirits[also plymouth acclaim] left around here between the car thieves and the roadsalt . I know the car well my father had 2 of them[89 and92].

Andrew

[nan_wpg]

My wife's car was Krowned last year. Both our cars were Rustchecked this year. I initialy  went with Krown because they were APA endorsed.
But there is no Krown in Winnipeg, which meant a 4 hour round trip to Kenora for Krowning.
I figure they are both fine companies, with simillar product, with the application being more important than who's product is actually "better".
Kinda like remote starters.....electronics with a radio transmiter, all they same except some are installed incorrectly.
My Rustcheck location in Winnipeg is one that does rustproofing exclusively, and not a shop that does it on the side when oil change/tranny/alignments, etc are slow.
My experience in general is specialized is better than everything under one roof.
In fact my Rustcheck application was more thourough then the Krown application. The Krown dealer was a tow truck/garage company that does Krown on the side.

I figure that an oil spray from either company is better than nothing, regardless of where you live. Rust starts from the inside, and there is condensation wherever you live. Some places rust slower than others, but everywhere, we will all rust.

I was also impressed when I talked to Rustcheck head quaters and asked about the difference between them and Krown.
The guy told me the whole Krown is ex Rustcheck guys story. More importantly he said either company would be a good choice, and that if I wanted to drive for 4 hours for an APA recommended shop then there was nothing wrong with that. He pointed out that at one time Rustcheck was APA endorsed, but for political reasons they are no longer members of the APA, and thus no more endorsement.
A big turn off for me is when a company bashes the competition. If a company can admit they are equals but can provide you with a good sense of consumer loyalty then they have my business.
Customer service is almost a thing of the pas.

Is oil spraying needed? No. Are winter tires needed? No.
I know for a fact that winter tires work. As for the oil  spray, well time will tell.
It amazes me that people will shell out serious coin not only for a vehicle, but also on a bazzilion watt stereo system complete with the "hey listen you can hear me 12 blocks away" subwoofers. They can spend hundreds if not thousands on lift kits/lowering kits, chrome wheels, etc, but cannot justify the expense of oil spray, or winter tires.

People can do as they wish, but I prefer to drive my vehicle for 10+ years, still looking decent. I also wish to not slide through an icy interesction, nor do I want to be deaf at age 40.

And, am I also the only one who thinks chrome wheels belong only on old, restored muscle cars?

[Seafoam]

My wife's car was Krowned last year. Both our cars were Rustchecked this year. I initialy  went with Krown because they were APA endorsed.
But there is no Krown in Winnipeg, which meant a 4 hour round trip to Kenora for Krowning.
I figure they are both fine companies, with simillar product, with the application being more important than who's product is actually "better".
Kinda like remote starters.....electronics with a radio transmiter, all they same except some are installed incorrectly.
My Rustcheck location in Winnipeg is one that does rustproofing exclusively, and not a shop that does it on the side when oil change/tranny/alignments, etc are slow.
My experience in general is specialized is better than everything under one roof.
In fact my Rustcheck application was more thourough then the Krown application. The Krown dealer was a tow truck/garage company that does Krown on the side.

I figure that an oil spray from either company is better than nothing, regardless of where you live. Rust starts from the inside, and there is condensation wherever you live. Some places rust slower than others, but everywhere, we will all rust.

I was also impressed when I talked to Rustcheck head quaters and asked about the difference between them and Krown.
The guy told me the whole Krown is ex Rustcheck guys story. More importantly he said either company would be a good choice, and that if I wanted to drive for 4 hours for an APA recommended shop then there was nothing wrong with that. He pointed out that at one time Rustcheck was APA endorsed, but for political reasons they are no longer members of the APA, and thus no more endorsement.
A big turn off for me is when a company bashes the competition. If a company can admit they are equals but can provide you with a good sense of consumer loyalty then they have my business.
Customer service is almost a thing of the pas.

Is oil spraying needed? No. Are winter tires needed? No.
I know for a fact that winter tires work. As for the oil  spray, well time will tell.
It amazes me that people will shell out serious coin not only for a vehicle, but also on a bazzilion watt stereo system complete with the "hey listen you can hear me 12 blocks away" subwoofers. They can spend hundreds if not thousands on lift kits/lowering kits, chrome wheels, etc, but cannot justify the expense of oil spray, or winter tires.

People can do as they wish, but I prefer to drive my vehicle for 10+ years, still looking decent. I also wish to not slide through an icy interesction, nor do I want to be deaf at age 40.

And, am I also the only one who thinks chrome wheels belong only on old, restored muscle cars?

Well said

Andrew