Topic: Painting spoiler on Fiat 500C

[Slow_lane]

The finish on spoilers that holds the 3rd brake light on Fiat 500C cabriolets fail all the time. Our 2015 was good until a few weeks ago and then boom the clear coat finish start peeling. Lasting 9 years was good for this piece.

I am going to remove it from roof (that is a little scary in itself) and then take out brake light. I then hope to re-finish it myself. I am looking for advice on how to sand it and what to use to paint it. It is a hard plastic and the factory finish is not high gloss. It is more of a satin.

I am not too concern about the gloss as long as it is black, uniform and looks decent. I may not shoot for perfection as I doing it myself and it is a 9 year old car.

Here is what I was thinking. I would sand it down with a slightly coarse grit to remove all existing clear coat. Then sand it with a fine grit before painting. I was thinking of using a quality trim paint. I read that Duplicolor paint can spit out droplets so I was going to go for a higher quality paint. Such as:

https://www.amazon.ca/SEM-39143-Trim-Black-Aerosol/dp/B000EM019O/ref=asc_df_B000EM019O/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292957658817&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10519961950276669991&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000487&hvtargid=pla-570111835149&psc=1&mcid=231b2b8722b03153b2c1f926df279ceb#customerReviews

I am not sure if I need to use a clear coat on trim paint. I would be really happy if I did not have to do that.

I am not sure on what grit sand paper to use 1) to get finish off and 2) to smooth finish to be ready for painting. Any advice would be appreciated.

[EV Dan]

While I haven't done it myself, I recall watching a fairly thorough guide on youtube on how to do it right. It seemed straightforward enough.

[JohnnyMac]

If it was me, I would probably go the plastidip route.  It's much more forgiving, is less permeant than doing a full primer and paint yourself, and it's more user friendly.  There are satin black options and the price is very decent for such an application.  So between this being a lower cost, more DIY friendly, and easily removable I'd personally go that route.

[Firm]

Plastidip isn't a bad idea.

To answer your questions though; given that it's plastic I'd be careful not to use too course of a grit and mar it up, then it'll take a lot more sanding with finer grit to remove the course grit sandlines. So, I'd probably start with 220 to remove the old finish, it'll take a bit longer, but less risk of scaring it. Then move to 400 and then 600 grit. That should be good to paint on, but if you lay down a coat or two and see sandlines, you can always let it dry and then hit it with some 800 grit to remove any final imperfections before your final coat(s). CTC used to sell a variety pack of wet/dry sand paper in the automotive section with 400/600/800, which would be a good option instead of having to buy each separately.

You shouldn't need to clear coat it if you use a quality automotive rated paint. If you did clear coat it, you'd need to find a semi-gloss clear, as using regular clear on top of a matte finish paint is going to give you a high-gloss.

[Slow_lane]

If it was me, I would probably go the plastidip route.  It's much more forgiving, is less permeant than doing a full primer and paint yourself, and it's more user friendly.  There are satin black options and the price is very decent for such an application.  So between this being a lower cost, more DIY friendly, and easily removable I'd personally go that route.

Neat idea. But the removal of the spoiler is a little tricky so I think I would rather do a permanent paint job in hopes I never have to tackle this again.

[Slow_lane]

Plastidip isn't a bad idea.

To answer your questions though; given that it's plastic I'd be careful not to use too course of a grit and mar it up, then it'll take a lot more sanding with finer grit to remove the course grit sandlines. So, I'd probably start with 220 to remove the old finish, it'll take a bit longer, but less risk of scaring it. Then move to 400 and then 600 grit. That should be good to paint on, but if you lay down a coat or two and see sandlines, you can always let it dry and then hit it with some 800 grit to remove any final imperfections before your final coat(s). CTC used to sell a variety pack of wet/dry sand paper in the automotive section with 400/600/800, which would be a good option instead of having to buy each separately.

You shouldn't need to clear coat it if you use a quality automotive rated paint. If you did clear coat it, you'd need to find a semi-gloss clear, as using regular clear on top of a matte finish paint is going to give you a high-gloss.

I checked my supply. I have on hand 220 and 400 water proof that I think is for wet sanding. 400 sure looks very fine but I guess not good enough.  I guess I better shop for 600 / 800.

[Firm]

Yeah, 400 is good for prep, but not for final finish paint. Grab some 600/800.

[rrocket]

Another cheap alternative is to wrap it.

I bet a local place could wrap it for cheap without any need for removal.

I bet you could do it too.

[EV Dan]

Search for "car clear coat repair" on youtube. It can be DIY'd.

[Firm]

Not a wrap fan.

The factory clear that's failed there is a satin finish clear. You won't be able to repair it like you would a traditional gloss clear, any overlapping of the factory finish is going to give you different gradients of satin. Plus, those clear coat repair strategies still require a ton of prep.

Slow Lane has the right idea. Remove it, sand it down, re-shoot it with some quality satin black automotive grade trim paint. Under $50 spent, it'll look factory and last forever. The key is going to be sanding out those damaged areas so there totally smooth. Use a small sanding block, for small stuff like this I like to get a common eraser (those old "pink pearl" ones work well) and wrap my sandpaper around it, that ensures you're sanding out the whole area evenly and not doing it to the conture of your hand/fingers.

[rrocket]

Not a wrap fan.

Really not sure what you're talking about, honestly. I mean was the lengthy second part in reference to wraps?

Wrap are of very high quality now. I've only used 3M Di-Noc. It's high quality. I'd not be surprised if there's something superior.

I put some over a sideview that was all peeled and gnarly looking on a kids car. I also did IQs side views in a carbon version. Scuffed with a pad then hit with alcohol. That was it for prep. Looked new. Can't see any of the clear coat imperfection through the wrap. Wrap material is quite thick.

Guys are regularly using this for add on chin and trunk spoilers instead of painting. Every color under the sun is available, so even near perfect color matches are possible. Barring that, the most popular wraps for this are carbon or black. Satin, Gloss, Flat. All available.

For speed and cost effectiveness, wrap is a solid option for something like this IMO.

YMMV.

[Firm]

No, the second part of my comment was in reference to EV Dan's suggestion to follow some of the clear coat repair videos. Those techniques will not provide good results when working with a satin clear.

As for wraps, it's a fine solution, just not my thing...I can always tell, in person at least, when something is wrapped vs. painted and it comes off looking a bit cheap.

[rrocket]

No, the second part of my comment was in reference to EV Dan's suggestion to follow some of the clear coat repair videos. Those techniques will not provide good results when working with a satin clear.

As for wraps, it's a fine solution, just not my thing...I can always tell, in person at least, when something is wrapped vs. painted and it comes off looking a bit cheap.

Oh ok, I misunderstood.

And  wrapped vs painted, all in the quality of the install/wrap IMO.

I've seen gloss carbon that's looked better than real carbon...somehow. And satin black? All but impossible to tell IMO.

But I hear you...I've seen some poor looking wraps.

[Slow_lane]

Before I started this effort I went out to a recommended paint shop to see what painting this plastic piece would cost. If I take it off and deliver to them with no brake light they would charge $250 for a re-paint. Pretty much what I expected.

As of right now I still think I will take a shot at re-painting.