Welp, it's the steering rack. $1200 for a replacement, labour in.
As far as I'm concerned, the car is mechanically totalled. The paint on it sucks, unrepaired accident damage from the previous owner (crumpled fender), AC doesn't work (not a recharge, I think it's the expansion valve), there's a clunk coming from the front suspension, and Oh, Yeah, it's got 329 000kms.
I'm putting it up for sale 'as is' for $1500, will try to get $1000. Engine/tranny still work beautifully, and the car drives great.
Something is replacing it. We pick it up on Saturday. Any guesses?