Topic: Rust Check vs. Krown

[Firm]

I've always been a Krown advocate; getting my cars sprayed annually and I've honestly been very happy over the years...even my winter driven cars look great underneath.

However, the one thing that has been bugging me with Krown, and moreso recently (has the formula changed?) is how thin it is, a few highway drives in heavy rain and the 'high impact' area (wheel wells, rocker panels, etc) are washed pretty clean. Since I am OCD about rust that means I am outside with the aerosol cans from CT touching up those areas on a monthly (or sometimes bi-weekly) basis.

I am about to have the Escalade treated for the season (had the DTS Krown a couple weeks ago) and decided to do some research on Rust Check. Reading their website I found this page particularly interesting:
https://www.rustcheck.com/two-step-application-process/

It seems they have a thinner product for inner panels, and a thicker "wash resistant" product for the underbody. I know Krown is using the same product everywhere, so this might be a bit of an advantage to the Rust Check process.

Anyone else every use Rust Check? Pricing is the same as Krown, so I am very tempted to try it with the Escalade and see....

[tortoise]

I've never used Rust Chek but I did buy a can of the Krown T-40 which is supposed to be thicker.   I spray that on the wheel wells, door hinges, etc.

[rrocket]

I've always been a Krown advocate; getting my cars sprayed annually and I've honestly been very happy over the years...even my winter driven cars look great underneath.

However, the one thing that has been bugging me with Krown, and moreso recently (has the formula changed?) is how thin it is, a few highway drives in heavy rain and the 'high impact' area (wheel wells, rocker panels, etc) are washed pretty clean. Since I am OCD about rust that means I am outside with the aerosol cans from CT touching up those areas on a monthly (or sometimes bi-weekly) basis.

I am about to have the Escalade treated for the season (had the DTS Krown a couple weeks ago) and decided to do some research on Rust Check. Reading their website I found this page particularly interesting:
https://www.rustcheck.com/two-step-application-process/

It seems they have a thinner product for inner panels, and a thicker "wash resistant" product for the underbody. I know Krown is using the same product everywhere, so this might be a bit of an advantage to the Rust Check process.

Anyone else every use Rust Check? Pricing is the same as Krown, so I am very tempted to try it with the Escalade and see....

From the Krown website:

"The rust inhibitor itself cannot be removed from the metal with soap and water."

So are they lying?

[Firm]

I've always been a Krown advocate; getting my cars sprayed annually and I've honestly been very happy over the years...even my winter driven cars look great underneath.

However, the one thing that has been bugging me with Krown, and moreso recently (has the formula changed?) is how thin it is, a few highway drives in heavy rain and the 'high impact' area (wheel wells, rocker panels, etc) are washed pretty clean. Since I am OCD about rust that means I am outside with the aerosol cans from CT touching up those areas on a monthly (or sometimes bi-weekly) basis.

I am about to have the Escalade treated for the season (had the DTS Krown a couple weeks ago) and decided to do some research on Rust Check. Reading their website I found this page particularly interesting:
https://www.rustcheck.com/two-step-application-process/

It seems they have a thinner product for inner panels, and a thicker "wash resistant" product for the underbody. I know Krown is using the same product everywhere, so this might be a bit of an advantage to the Rust Check process.

Anyone else every use Rust Check? Pricing is the same as Krown, so I am very tempted to try it with the Escalade and see....

From the Krown website:

"The rust inhibitor itself cannot be removed from the metal with soap and water."

So are they lying?

Don't know - I've seen that line before, but it's very vague, and sort of contradictory to all their statements around getting it re-applied every year. If there is some magical rust inhibitor that remains behind have the oil has washed away, does it automatically disappear one year from the last application to? Just seems sorta far-fetched...

[Seafoam]

I've always been a Krown advocate; getting my cars sprayed annually and I've honestly been very happy over the years...even my winter driven cars look great underneath.

However, the one thing that has been bugging me with Krown, and moreso recently (has the formula changed?) is how thin it is, a few highway drives in heavy rain and the 'high impact' area (wheel wells, rocker panels, etc) are washed pretty clean. Since I am OCD about rust that means I am outside with the aerosol cans from CT touching up those areas on a monthly (or sometimes bi-weekly) basis.

I am about to have the Escalade treated for the season (had the DTS Krown a couple weeks ago) and decided to do some research on Rust Check. Reading their website I found this page particularly interesting:
https://www.rustcheck.com/two-step-application-process/

It seems they have a thinner product for inner panels, and a thicker "wash resistant" product for the underbody. I know Krown is using the same product everywhere, so this might be a bit of an advantage to the Rust Check process.

Anyone else every use Rust Check? Pricing is the same as Krown, so I am very tempted to try it with the Escalade and see....

I've used both but presently use Krown. I have switched back in forth over the years depending on who is applying the product. Had the old truck done a couple of months ago. It appears they have done a good job by looking at the spot in front of my house where the truck is parked. I get the civic done every 18 months or so.  I don't believe in any of the undercoating crap the dealers sell. They are counting on you getting rid of the vehicle before any major rust is seen.
From what I have been told the thicker Rust Check costs more than the thinner stuff.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. As long as is applied to the areas such as welds and seems where water can be displaced.

[Seafoam]

I've always been a Krown advocate; getting my cars sprayed annually and I've honestly been very happy over the years...even my winter driven cars look great underneath.

However, the one thing that has been bugging me with Krown, and moreso recently (has the formula changed?) is how thin it is, a few highway drives in heavy rain and the 'high impact' area (wheel wells, rocker panels, etc) are washed pretty clean. Since I am OCD about rust that means I am outside with the aerosol cans from CT touching up those areas on a monthly (or sometimes bi-weekly) basis.

I am about to have the Escalade treated for the season (had the DTS Krown a couple weeks ago) and decided to do some research on Rust Check. Reading their website I found this page particularly interesting:
https://www.rustcheck.com/two-step-application-process/

It seems they have a thinner product for inner panels, and a thicker "wash resistant" product for the underbody. I know Krown is using the same product everywhere, so this might be a bit of an advantage to the Rust Check process.

Anyone else every use Rust Check? Pricing is the same as Krown, so I am very tempted to try it with the Escalade and see....

From the Krown website:

"The rust inhibitor itself cannot be removed from the metal with soap and water."

So are they lying?

Don't know - I've seen that line before, but it's very vague, and sort of contradictory to all their statements around getting it re-applied every year. If there is some magical rust inhibitor that remains behind have the oil has washed away, does it automatically disappear one year from the last application to? Just seems sorta far-fetched...

Must be working for you though. Your camaro isn't actually new is it ?

[rrocket]

I've always been a Krown advocate; getting my cars sprayed annually and I've honestly been very happy over the years...even my winter driven cars look great underneath.

However, the one thing that has been bugging me with Krown, and moreso recently (has the formula changed?) is how thin it is, a few highway drives in heavy rain and the 'high impact' area (wheel wells, rocker panels, etc) are washed pretty clean. Since I am OCD about rust that means I am outside with the aerosol cans from CT touching up those areas on a monthly (or sometimes bi-weekly) basis.

I am about to have the Escalade treated for the season (had the DTS Krown a couple weeks ago) and decided to do some research on Rust Check. Reading their website I found this page particularly interesting:
https://www.rustcheck.com/two-step-application-process/

It seems they have a thinner product for inner panels, and a thicker "wash resistant" product for the underbody. I know Krown is using the same product everywhere, so this might be a bit of an advantage to the Rust Check process.

Anyone else every use Rust Check? Pricing is the same as Krown, so I am very tempted to try it with the Escalade and see....

From the Krown website:

"The rust inhibitor itself cannot be removed from the metal with soap and water."

So are they lying?

Don't know - I've seen that line before, but it's very vague, and sort of contradictory to all their statements around getting it re-applied every year. If there is some magical rust inhibitor that remains behind have the oil has washed away, does it automatically disappear one year from the last application to? Just seems sorta far-fetched...

Yea, that's what I wonder.

Like if you get your car Krowned, then have and drive in rain showers on and off for a week or two...does it all wash off?

What about an automatic car wash?

[Firm]

I've never seen it all wash off; but more so around the areas that get really hit with water at a high impact while driving. If you look under the Escalade right now (about a year since it's last spray), it's pretty dry around the wheel wells and inner rocker/underside behind the front wheels.

It does work, and to Seafoam's point, my rust free high-mileage junkers attest to that. But Krown isn't the only thing I do to keep my stuff from rusting, and I am thinking the thicker stuff might be better, on the underside at least.

Guess I need to try it and find out huh? 

[rrocket]

Definitely works...oil spray is better than no oil spray.

I think it's been largely agreed that HOW well is applied is more important than the actual product used.

[Firm]

OK, so another thread reminded me to update this.

After some disappointment in the way Krown's product seems to quick wear off of the underside of the car I experimented a bit with the Rust Check product....Rust Check actually has two formulas; the thinner (red) formula for inner panels, underhood, etc and a thicker formula for the underside. I bought a couple aerosol cans of the thicker stuff and touched up the underside of the DTS, then drove it in some big rain storms. Checked underneath and the Rust Check product is still coating well everywhere I sprayed it.

That experiment prompted me to take the Escalade for it's annual treatment at my local Rust Check facility vs. the Krown. Same pricing (too much IMO, especially with the 'large SUV' tax), but I would say that the Rust Check application was much more thorough, especially when it comes to the underside. After the application I checked underneath and it was thoroughly coated with the thicker product, and all the doors, rockers, etc were dripping heavily with the red thinner product.

Since the underside gets a thicker product, it drips less, but smokes more for longer than Krown. Mrs.Firm drove the truck in yesterday's rain storm, i checked underneath when I got home and the coating still looks as fresh as when it was applied, so I believe this is going to last much longer than Krown's protection.

So, my non-scientific approach to this suggests that the Rust Check product is superior, results obviously will vary by applicator, but I will be using Rust Check going forward.

[ArticSteve]

I'm out of Rust Check forever because of the long history of fraud, deception and bankruptcies.  They would have disappeared forever if not for Crappy Tire that sold their crap in spray cans for decades.  And crap it was.

After a decade of litigation with Rust Check, ex Rust Check dealers formed a co-op called Krown with a much superior liquid.  Now they have 2 types.  The 40 and 32.  Forget which is which, but the thicker stuff is sprayed on the underside and the thinner stuff is injected and sprayed in the engine compartment, trunk, doors, hood, etc.

IMO, just because something is thicker and adheres longer doesn't mean it's doing anything productive other than looking better.  My wheel liners are plastic and felt on the rear so spraying on top of those is pointless, but getting spray behind all that is what counts.

Rust Check was very destructive to vehicle owners in the 90s and for that reason I wish them a most bitter end. 


In addition, like Seafoam mentioned, much has to do with each individual shop.  How through and liberal with the spray are they.

[Ex-airbalancer]

You should get CTC lab to research to see which is better so they can sell the best one under CTC label 
Without know what chemicals are left on the metal , I think it is impossible to know which is better

[CarFly]

My car is 20 years old now and I have "Rust Sprayed" it before it was exposed to its first Winter and ever since; it has done a GREAT job of protecting my car from corrosion. I started by using Rust Check and after a few years I changed to Krown, just because there was a Krown dealership in my neighborhood, they both worked great.

My main issue now is dripping, I almost lost my indoor (apartment building) parking spot last year because of a dripping complaint. I thought that this year I might throw a bag of Kitty Litter underneath my car and sweep it up after the dripping stops. I know that Krown has some Kitty Litter-like stuff that they use on their own properties.

That "dripless" stuff sure can make a big mess to clean up, it took lots of time, lots of soap and water, and a big stiff push broom and lots and lots of elbow grease to get that stuff of the concrete

Does any-one have a better solution for this dripping problem?

[Seafoam]

My car is 20 years old now and I have "Rust Sprayed" it before it was exposed to its first Winter and ever since; it has done a GREAT job of protecting my car from corrosion. I started by using Rust Check and after a few years I changed to Krown, just because there was a Krown dealership in my neighborhood, they both worked great.

My main issue now is dripping, I almost lost my indoor (apartment building) parking spot last year because of a dripping complaint. I thought that this year I might throw a bag of Kitty Litter underneath my car and sweep it up after the dripping stops. I know that Krown has some Kitty Litter-like stuff that they use on their own properties.

That "dripless" stuff sure can make a big mess to clean up, it took lots of time, lots of soap and water, and a big stiff push broom and lots and lots of elbow grease to get that stuff of the concrete

Does any-one have a better solution for this dripping problem?

Park on a tarp ? I usually park in the street for  a few  of days.

[Firm]

I usually park on the street for about a week after a spray 

One time I bought a big tarp (or maybe it was two), laid them down on the driveway, put some bricks down to hold them, and parked on that for a week. Worked well, but I am sure the neighbors questioned my sanity...

[rrocket]

but I am sure the neighbors questioned my sanity...

You drive old Firebirds.

They've been questioning your sanity for a long time....    

[CarFly]

Maybe I'll park in the Church parking lot next door   I hear that they are very forgiving, maybe they will clean up the mess and wash my car for me too ...or have my car ticketed and towed. (I tend to think ticked and towed)

[Thinking Out Loud]

We have a 2006 Mazda MPV (the era when all Mazdas shed their rear fenders in just a few years).

I've done Krown for probably 8 of the 12 years and just had it done again in October. The underside is clean and I still have both rear fenders intact, although the outer skin seam that is supposed to be pinched with the inner fender is opening up gradually.  If I could find someone to spot weld it shut again it would help LOL.

I spray extra Krown into the open seam as well and clear out the dirt and mud that accumuates, accelerating the rust.

Interesting Jalopnik story on a 270,000 MILE MPV:

https://jalopnik.com/this-270-000-mile-mazda-mpv-is-a-high-mileage-hero-1829762305

[dirtyjeffer]

i've been using Oil Gard on my vehicles the last few years...like others have said, it likely has more to do with how well the product is applied...i'm sure all the products are pretty comparable in terms of being decent.

[kard00d]

Krown does do some hand waving.... I had rust form around the holes ... this was a 3 yr old car, Krowned every year from brand new within a week of getting it.

Yet, their FAQ about hole rusting says the holes are "treated with a special compound ensuring that they will not rust"..   

Also, that same car had plugs pop out, not seating right, etc.

Krown might be good... but the teenagers or shop owners brother-in-law applying it may not have a clue..

Also heard that the hole placement is specified per model by Krown HQ, based on factory knowledge, etc.  BS.  The dude puts holes where he wants.   They put a hole in a place where the panel was too thick for the plug stem to hold, hence the plug kept popping.

Yes, I'm still bitter paying $100/year to help my car rust.